PAUSE Highlights: Our Favourite Shows from Paris Men’s Fashion Week

We depart one more season of menswear in Paris. Who would have thought that after an intense schedule, moving from show to show through Parisian traffic, waiting minutes for runways to begin, squeezing in backstage catch-ups, and digesting the post–fashion week delivery through show notes, critics, and reactions, the message would feel so focused. Fall/Winter 2026 menswear is heading toward a new approach, one where consumer priorities and wearability are translated directly into silhouette. A return to what is known, and a departure from the irrational. Perhaps in the current state of the world, speaking through clothes is the simplest and most powerful thing a designer can do. Ask Willy Chavarria.

New experimentation through fabrics and craftsmanship took the reins across many collections, from Julian Klausner’s work at Dries to studies of silhouette and movement by Pharrell and Jung Wook-Jun. And while moments across social media dominated the conversation, Kai Cenat front row, or even Véronique Nichanian’s final bow at Hermès, we remain confident in what is unfolding next in fashion. PAUSE dives into the best collections from Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2026.

Dries Van Noten delivered a collection that needed no explanation. Perfect layering, rich pattern clashes and nostalgic references to lived-in garments created a poetic, forward-looking wardrobe. From office wear to fantasy escapes under Dries’ “armario,” knitwear emerged as the star: structured cardigans, Fair Isle motifs and knit-integrated coats anchoring the narrative.

Sacai delivered one of its strongest collections to date, mastering hybridization at every level. Tailoring was elevated with skirts and shorts, leather mixed with fluffy textures, and patchworked jackets collided with sporty, utilitarian references. From relaxed silhouettes to sharp proportions, florals to tribal motifs, the undeniable standout was denim with head-to-toe looks evolving past collections and reaffirming Sacai’s mastery of contrast.

Wooyoungmi’s FW26 unfolded as a journey through time and cold, blending early 20th-century winter dress with contemporary Korean reality. Sculptural references — from hanbok to Edwardian tailoring — met plush faux fur, velvet suits and hourglass leather jackets, while knits, shearling denim and utilitarian details grounded the collection. The result balanced romance, protection and sensual practicality.

Pharrell continued to solidify his vision for Louis Vuitton menswear, favouring stability over disruption. FW26 introduced a more futuristic, technical lens: structured tailoring, vibrant hues, glossy monogram pieces and recurring leather caps and ties. Craftsmanship stood out through flocked neck panels, modular garments, hand-painted leather outerwear and an expanded Speedy universe, reinforcing “Homework” as a study in modern luxury.

PAF’s FW26 “Drifter” was a quiet exercise in restraint and precision. Cut-out knits, controlled volumes and transformable puffers explored balance, while claw-like straps and sculptural headpieces added a protective, alien edge. The collection captured elegance through construction rather than decoration, where drifting became a language of engineered poetry.

Rick Owens’ FW26 Tower presented an “armour wardrobe” rooted in liberation and resistance. Deconstruction, distortion and exaggerated proportions were held together by powerful materials — Kevlar, felted wools, transformable leather and grotesquely bloated boots. Anchored in protection and parody, the collection reaffirmed Rick’s lexicon while turning armour into hope, craft and radical self-definition.

Every season, we can expect something from Colm Dillane, and this one was no exception. Arriving at the venue and seeing a rectangular box in the middle of the runway was just the beginning. Moments later, a movie projection featuring Vincent Cassel (who was in attendance) set confusion among the guests, blurring the line between what was real and what was not. Models walked around tables with a picturesque style, while expressionism and cinema references were present throughout the collection and defined each garment. XL coats and painted suits with tucked-in jackets played with proportion and rebelled against tailoring norms, while glossy leather pieces leaned heavily into statement outerwear. The show also teased two collaborations: one with Havaianas, and another jacket modeled by Jeff Hamilton, who walked the runway wearing an exclusive piece he designed in collaboration with KidSuper for the upcoming Super Bowl, following their initial jacket collaboration last season.