The Hub of Streetstyle.
Back to the Japanese streets—whether in Shibuya or Shinjuku—the capital has gained significant recognition over the decades as one of the best cities for emerging trends, designers, and, of course, street style. This influence has continuously shaped Western designers and brands aiming to replicate its talent, but one thing is certain: there is only one Tokyo.
For the Fall/Winter 2025 Menswear Fashion Week, the schedule was not as busy as it was during womenswear. However, there’s always a designer ready to showcase their latest collection. PAUSE Magazine never misses a season—so here’s your chance to dive into our highlight collection hot off the runway from Tokyo Menswear Fashion Week.
Shinyakozuka
Starting with our highlights, Shinya Kozuka’s Fall collection, Good Morning, I Wish I Could Fly, Nevermind, captured the brand’s signature melancholic mood (of course the main colour of the collection is blue) . Inspired by a penguin T-shirt, the collection explores themes of flightlessness and self-acceptance. Presented in an underground hall in Shinjuku, the setting matched the collection’s introspective tone.
Penguin motifs appeared abstractly on sweaters and more literally on blue-toned coats and suits. Kozuka fully embraced Yves Klein Blue, limiting the palette to blue, black, white, and grey, which heightened the clothing’s sensitivity. Rich textures—corduroy, velvet, and fur—added depth, while knitwear and balloon trousers featuring Kozuka’s musings introduced a poetic touch. The collection tells the famous “ugly duckling” story with a twist: finding beauty in simply being, even without the ability to fly.
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Held in an industrial warehouse at dusk, the collection offered a pared-back yet surprisingly sensitive take on menswear. Details like a pinned jumper revealing a glimpse of navel, asymmetric-waist jeans suggesting undress, and clingy wools and velvets contributed to this subtle sexiness. Bonded stretch leather pieces added a touch of fetishism, while the tonal palette remained highly restrained. A collaboration with John Smedley resulted in luxurious wool polos and simple scarves. Enomoto’s personal touch shone through, notably in the leggings inspired by his own loungewear. These, combined with coats and leather shoes, created a sense of half-dressed intimacy and boyish tenderness. While the show’s pacing lagged slightly, a lively finale featuring a techno remix of Vivaldi’s Winter provided a fittingly energetic end.
Khoki
One highlight we can’t overlook is Khoki. The brand’s Fall collection showcased its increasingly confident identity through an unexpected mix of elements. Workwear jackets, pearl-studded fleeces, and graphic shirts—one featuring a giant castle design—blended seamlessly with cross-stitched figures of animals and trees on down jackets, all fitting perfectly within the woodland-themed setting.
The collection struck a balance between sweetly strange and effortlessly wearable, offering lace-embroidered hoodies, tailoring, and denim pieces.
Designer Koki Abe drew inspiration from his Yamanashi hometown and childhood memories of the forest, bringing them to life on the runway. The set, constructed with bags of leaves, was intended to capture the forest’s eerie atmosphere, but ultimately evoked its mysterious beauty instead.
Mister.It
A collection being interesting through shape is exactly how Mister.It would be described… The brand presented 21 looks, showcasing Isagawa’s elevated casual wear, which he describes as “haute couture for the everyday.” A key design element this season was the dramatic elongation of trench coats, transforming them into sweeping capes that once again are part of the designer skills, playing through shapes. Shirts also adopted a cape-like construction. Tailoring appeared in mud-dyed floral prints, while slim flared jeans were paired with oversized square pockets. The brand’s signature coat hanger-shaped leather handbags returned, one carrying a double-breasted brown wool blazer subtly accented with rainbow windowpane checks. The collection culminated in with ivory jacket, completely covered in oversized badges representing all of Mister.It’s stockists.
Meanswhile
Meanswhile’s show took place at the Odaiba skate park, built for the 2020 Olympics. Guests, wrapped in silver life blankets, braved the cold night air. Designer Naohiro Fujisaki, known for his practical, industrial-looking gorpcore, celebrated the brand’s 10th anniversary. Having honed his skills at White Mountaineering, Fujisaki caters to outdoorsy individuals seeking functionality without the mainstream appeal. This season, he explored clothing as shelter, bridging the gap between urban and mountain environments. The skate park, while uncomfortable, effectively showcased this concept, with spotlights and drone cameras creating a lunar, sci-fi atmosphere. The collection featured hardware-laden vests, cargo pants, and backpacks in a space-age palette, with details like storm shield fleeces, insulating skirts, and fuzzy arm warmers. A collaboration with The North Face yielded monochrome backpacks and jackets, some featuring Meanswhile’s signature zig-zag straps. Most notably, Fujisaki introduced an updated version of his kuchofuku – air-conditioned down jackets – designed to cool the wearer at the push of a button.
PHOTO CREDIT: Courtesy of the brands
