A Step Too Far.
One minute you’re on top of the world, and the next you’re not. Luxury Spanish brand Balenciaga know that better than anybody, with their latest ‘Gift Shop’ campaign landing the fashion house in a whole world of trouble… and they’ve only got themselves to blame.
Having consistently been in the limelight over the past few months, Balenciaga’s edgy take on fashion had made them one of the most sought-after brands in the game in 2022. From their controversial Spring/Summer 2023 ‘The Mud Show’ collection and runway show to their highly-publicised disputes with Kanye West, the brand were just about finding themselves on the right side of the public eye’s moral compass. Come November 16th, all of that changed as Balenciaga unveiled their ‘Gift Shop’ campaign, which saw young children pose with a selection of teddy bears donning a range of BDSM-themed garments.
PAUSE have broken down some of the key elements to Balenciaga’s recent downfall and where the Demna-led fashion house firmly stepped over the seemingly obvious moral line in the sand.
PHOTO CREDIT: Daniel Lee (via Unsplash)
PHOTO CREDIT: Balenciaga
October 3rd, 2022: PFW- Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2023 Collection
Whilst not being many people’s entry-point to this Balenciaga scandal, October 3rd saw the unveiling of the brand’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection at Paris Fashion Week, which in turn gave onlookers a first glimpse at the controversial BDSM-clad teddy bear accessories. Garnering mixed reviews at the time, hindsight puts forward a disturbing narrative as we look back on the display, with other notable standout pieces adding to the concerning amount of evidence. For instance, themes of desolation filled Balenciaga’s SS23′ ‘The Mud Show’ as models walked determinedly through mud mounds, all the while carrying these teddy bear bags clad in BDSM gear, young baby dolls, as well as blood-filled handbags. Did Balenciaga purposefully attempt to bring dark, violent and disruptive settings and the innocence of youth together? Whatever their creative angle, Balenciaga’s Spring/Summer 2023 campaign eerily set the precedent for what was to come.
November 16th, 2022: Balenciaga Launch ‘Gift Shop’ Campaign
Entering the eye of the storm, Balenciaga’s treading of the line has always been a point of controversy for the Spanish house, but this time around, it didn’t pay off. Releasing earlier this month, the brand’s ‘Gift Shop’ campaign almost immediately received widespread backlash, with Balenciaga’s BDSM-themed teddy bear bags making a reappearance, this time alongside a selection of young children. The campaign, which was shot by National Geographic Photographer Gabriele Galimberti, continued to link children with dangerously violent imagery, with even more worrying details arriving in the brand’s follow up campaign. Supporting Balenciaga’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection, the ‘Garde-Robe’ campaign, which featured the likes of Bella Hadid and Nicole Kidman, saw Balenciaga opt for an “office” theme that displayed a host of legal documents across the set, with a page from a Supreme Court ruling of United States v. Williams being spotted. The document included several references to child pornography, with the case ultimately deeming the promotion of child pornography illegal and not protected under freedom of speech. Additionally, “Michaël Borremans: Fire from the Sun” by Michael Bracewell featured in the campaign imagery, adding even more fuel to the fire as many pointed out the text’s depiction of children in the nude, whilst the text’s online description stated the following: “Reminiscent of cherubs in Renaissance paintings, the toddlers appear as allegories of the human condition, their archetypal innocence contrasted with their suggested deviousness.” Whilst the campaign images were swiftly deleted, the damage had already been done.
PHOTO CREDIT: Balenciaga
PHOTO CREDIT: Balenciaga
November 24th, 2022: Balenciaga Release Statement One Week After ‘Gift Shop’ Campaign Unveiling
Waiting a whole week to address the controversy, Balenciaga finally released a statement to the public and seemed to deflect a considerable portion of blame onto other parties involved in the campaign. The statement read as follows:
“We sincerely apologize for any offense our holiday campaign may have caused. Our plush bear bags should not have been featured with children in this campaign. We have immediately removed the campaign from all platforms.”
In the hour following this statement, Balenciaga released a second statement acknowledging their ‘Garde-Robe’ campaign, which featured the unsettling Supreme Court documents.
“We apologize for displaying unsettling documents in our campaign. We take this matter very seriously and are taking legal action against the parties responsible for creating the set and including unapproved items for our Spring 23 campaign photo shoot. We strongly condemn abuse of children in any form. We stand for children’s safety and well-being.”
November 25th, 2022: Balenciaga Inititates $25 million lawsuit against North Six and Nicholas Des Jardins
Following up on their statement, Balenciaga actioned a $25 million lawsuit against campaign production company North Six and set designer Nicholas Des Jardins, stating that the duo were complicit in the permitting of “inexplicable acts and omissions” that were “malevolent or, at the very least, extraordinarily reckless.” Most importantly, Balenciaga claimed that the controversial Supreme Court papers were placed in the campaign photographs without their knowledge and approval, and this thus led to false ties between Balenciaga and child pornography.
PHOTO CREDIT: Balenciaga
November 28th, 2022: Balenciaga Release Second Statement Referencing “New Controls”
Going into more detail, Balenciaga discussed the controversy and finally took a modicum of responsibility in the campaign, highlighting an array of “grievous errors” as the reason behind the worrying campaign imagery. Stating that “internal and external investigations” were set to take place, Balenciaga also put forward a selection of brief action overviews that the brand will be undertaking going forward, stating that they wanted to “learn” from their mistakes.
Only time will tell whether Balenciaga’s future in fashion will remain as fruitful as before, but what is most definitely evident is that the ‘line in the sand’ between disruptive, rule-bending fashion and society’s moral compass should be firmly set (as if it wasn’t before). Despite their pleas of partial innocence, Balenciaga’s huge misstep cannot be ignored and they should continue to be held accountable.
Stay tuned to PAUSE for more information regarding the Balenciaga controversy as it arrives.
