The Best Moments from the Week.
Another season filled with over 60 shows and 40 presentations has finally come to an end in Paris. From timeless collections to extravagant moments on the runway – including Alessandro Michele’s debut at Valentino – and explorations of archival pieces like those from Saint Laurent, this season was truly remarkable. If you missed any of it, here are our highlights from the Spring/Summer 2025 season at Paris Fashion Week.
The New Womenswear at Saint Laurent
Anthony Vaccarello’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection for Yves Saint Laurent was a stunning showcase of the brand’s iconic tailoring and eclectic eveningwear. Set against a striking blue oval runway reminiscent of Yves Saint Laurent’s famous Marrakech gardens, the show featured a captivating mix of sharp masculine silhouettes and vibrant feminine elegance. Oversized outerwear, layered with different options and paired with shiny leather belts, radiated a sense of refined sophistication, highlighting how traditionally masculine designs can enhance the power of the feminine form. Jewels, bags, and chunky eyewear completed each look, adding a bold, modern twist to the collection.
The collection balanced structure with drama, featuring shimmering cropped coats, skin-tight dresses, ruffled skirts, and bold, kaleidoscopic colors. Each look was a testament to Vaccarello’s ability to merge restraint with extravagance, offering a modern twist on Yves Saint Laurent’s timeless aesthetic.
Mexican-American Culture at Casablanca
Casablanca, known for its après-sport aesthetic, delivered a clean collection that deserved to be included in our highlights. For the Spring/Summer 2025 collection, designer Charaf Tajer drew inspiration from the Mexican-American Los Angelenos Lowrider culture, a community that resonated deeply with his own background. The runway was transformed into a vibrant automotive spectacle, featuring four custom-modified cars that perfectly complemented the collection’s energetic mood.
Models like Lucky Blue Smith and Alton Mason strutted their stuff around the neon vehicles, showcasing Tajer’s latest tennis-inspired garments. The collection was a dazzling array of colors and textures, boasting glittering denim, classic kaleidoscopic shirting, and jersey-inspired tops. Casablanca’s signature bold and expressive style was on full display, making a lasting impression on the fashion world.
Acne Studios Delivering a Solid Collection
Jonny Johansson’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection for the brand embarked on a surreal journey through the intricacies of domestic life, the show blurred the lines between the ordinary and the extraordinary, drawing the audience into a world where domesticity met high fashion.
The garments showcased dramatic silhouettes that shifted between exaggerated volumes and shrunken fits, crafting a visual dialogue. Knit sweaters were creatively tied together for a double-layer effect, while heavily layered pleats contributed to a sense of structured chaos. Softening the “acne” aesthetic, bows and floral patterns provided a playful contrast to the oversized, chunky silhouettes, making the collection both demure and approachable. Multi-layered dresses, including one featuring a “jellyfish” skirt, added an element of fun to the lineup, teasing viewers and distorting perceptions of normalcy in fashion. From knit sets to draped fabrics, the collection was a masterclass in volume and texture, culminating in bold, solid silhouettes.
Technical Approach by Ottolinger
Ottolinger’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection was a bold and futuristic journey through contemporary femininity, opening with a dramatic inflatable shark mouth that immediately set the tone for a powerful visual narrative. The collection emphasised resilience and adaptability, celebrating the modern woman as both fierce and constantly evolving.
Sleek, long jersey dresses, statement black halter pieces, and crystal-studded sandals highlighted the balance between strength and elegance, while foiled leather jackets added a rebellious, futuristic flair. Playful accessories like handbags adorned with credit cards and headphones brought a quirky, chic girly edge, showcasing the brand’s inventive spirit. Voluminous, detachable pieces gave the collection a dimensional, sculptural quality, while collaborations with Shayne Oliver and Shark Beauty introduced even more playful, cutting-edge elements.
Travis Scott Opening the Vetements Show
Guram Gvasalia’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection for VETEMENTS, titled “Time To Clean Up The Mess,” opened with Travis Scott strutting down the runway in a glossy leather two-piece look, setting the tone for a bold critique of fashion’s overproduction and consumerism. The show transformed familiar logos and symbols of mass consumption into thought-provoking garments. From Gigi Hadid being wrapped in a DHL-inspired red-and-yellow tape dress, to the collection’s mismatched graphics, exposed tags, and oversized silhouettes, VETEMENTS’ Spring/Summer 2025 lineup challenged the norms of luxury fashion, pushing the conversation toward sustainability and excess.
The collection also played with contrasting textures, featuring crinkled fabrics, distressed leathers, and shiny patent materials, all mixed with unfinished hems and raw details. Oversized shoulders, baggy denim, and bulky leather coats stood out, while draped batwing gowns and garments with visible price tags added an edgy touch, all of it closing with the striking “bride look” worn by Anok Yai.
Simplicity as Art at Loewe
Jonathan Anderson’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection for LOEWE was a star-studded affair, with guests including Ayo Edebiri, Taylor Russell, Daniel Craig, Drew Starkey and more. Held at the iconic Château de Vincennes, the show was framed by a minimalist set featuring a single bird sculpture by Tracey Emin, highlighting the collection’s theme of simplicity as art. Anderson’s sculptural silhouettes and ethereal textures, from abstract floral pieces suspended in mid-air to ballooning ponchos and slouchy suits, demonstrated his mastery of turning everyday staples into striking, wearable art.
The focus on craftsmanship was unmistakable throughout the collection. Trapeze dresses with delicate destruction techniques, intricate embroidery, and subtle embellishments showcased LOEWE’s commitment to artisanal excellence. Anderson’s reimagining of the “Madrid” bag, along with inventive slouchy suits and gathered trousers blending masculine and feminine aesthetics, reinforced the brand’s timeless appeal. By stripping away excess, Anderson allowed intricate details, like feathered textures and sequined peplum dresses, to shine.
Future Techno at HELIOT EMIL
HELIOT EMIL’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection was a thought-provoking exploration of the tension between nature and artificiality. Drawing inspiration from Olafur Eliasson’s “Riverbed” installation, the collection juxtaposed the raw and organic with the sleek and futuristic.
The garments delved into the idea of contrast, combining HELIOT EMIL’s technicality with fluid, organic elements. The collection’s minimalist aesthetic mirrored the simplicity of freshly birthed volcanic landscapes, with black-on-black styling and draped panels recalling the smooth folds of black lava fields. Hardware and accessories, such as molten chrome ore and undulating carabiners, added a touch of futuristic edge. HELIOT EMIL also unveiled two key collaborations for SS25, teasing joint efforts alongside PUMA and STACCATO. The PUMA collaboration featured a monochromatic capsule collection that combined HELIOT EMIL’s utilitarian design with PUMA’s sportswear expertise, whilst the STACCATO entry featured different accessories, including a bag and five shoes designed with a sculptural sole.
A New Era at Lacoste
Pelagia Kolotouros, Lacoste’s creative director, delivered a collection that beautifully intertwined the brand’s heritage with contemporary style. Inspired by René Lacoste’s debonair off-court lifestyle, particularly his seaside adventures in the 1920s, the summer 2025 lineup was a refreshing blend of classic and modern elements.
The show’s unique setting, featuring a runway made of sand and a wave-like installation by Susie MacMurray, perfectly captured the beachy vibe of the collection. The juxtaposition of the gritty sand with the refined silhouettes and luxurious fabrics created a striking contrast. Kolotouros’ ability to seamlessly blend timeless pieces like silky robes and sharp tailoring with more street-savvy elements, such as denim neo-polo shirts and micro-ripstop nylon parkas, was evident throughout the collection. The color palette of dark brown, beige, Lacoste’s signature green, and yellow added a touch of sophistication and warmth.
Miu Miu
Taking over the Palais d’Iéna in Paris, Miu Miu’s Spring/Summer 2025 show transformed the historic venue into a buzzing newspaper printing press for artist Goshka Macuga’s installation “Salt Looks Like Sugar.” The space, dominated by a conveyor belt endlessly feeding newspapers titled, “The Truthless Times,” set the tone for a collection that explored themes of truth, perception, and the blurred lines between them.
As models like Willem Defoe and Hilary Swank took to the runway, Miu Miu presented a collection that balanced understated design with deliberate touches of retro nostalgia. Office-wear staples were reimagined, as white knee-length dresses with scalloped hems were paired with oversized windbreakers, hoodies, and zip pullovers, creating an intentional sense of disarray. Disheveled tube tops, loosely tied around the torso like sweater sleeves, displayed the Miu Miu logo in a way that felt both casual and considered. Midway through, 1970s-inspired trench coats and bold aviator sunglasses introduced a retro flair, while accessories like layered metal belts and oversized leather bags added dimension. Footwear ranged from classic patent loafers and pointed heels to brightly colored flip-flops and slides, creating a playful contrast.
The Artisanal Roots from Issey Miyake
The brand’s creative director, Satoshi Kondo, delved into the origins of washi, an ancient Japanese paper, and created a collection that celebrated its texture, structure, and versatility.
The collection featured a series of experimental garments crafted from semi-transparent fabric that mimicked the delicate look of damp paper. These designs, showcased fold-detailed silhouettes with a dimpled texture reminiscent of traditional Japanese hemp paper. Highlights included the glamorous trench coats, the collaboration with Tadanori Yokoo, and the sheer veils that added an ethereal touch to the collection.
