The Future of Fashion is Here.
London Fashion Week ignited with a burst of creativity Thursday night, as Central Saint Martins’ prestigious MA show took center stage. This highly anticipated event, a true highlight of LFW, unveiled a breathtaking panorama of 18 collections, a staggering 140 looks in total for the Fall/Winter 2025 season.
The sheer diversity and artistry on display were astounding, ranging from brilliantly reimagined British classics to cutting-edge, avant-garde explorations of identity and the very latest in fashion technology. The runway showcased the exceptional talents of this year’s graduating designers: Petra Fagerstorm, Jake Zhang, Tuuli Turunen, Yaoyao Huang, Phinyophummin, Isidora Durovic, Liu Xueyang, Kelechi Mpamaugo, Jane Fu, Lucas Moretti, Zihan Miracle Liu, Oriol Clavell, Lily Teiger, Jude Braganza, Scar Kennedy, William Palmer, Jacek Gleba, Alison Keogh, and Kate Dewar.
Two designers, Petra Fagerstorm and William Palmer, walked away with the coveted L’Oréal Professionnel Award. Fagerstorm, with experience at fashion houses like Acne and Balenciaga, launched her own label under the Swedish Fashion Council. Palmer, a former designer at Craig Green, Walter Van Beirendonck, and COMME des GARÇONS, presented a playful take on “lad culture,” transforming everyday items like tea towels and picnic blankets into stylish streetwear. His “breadwinner” concept, featuring a giant bread-shaped duffel bag, cleverly critiqued the pressures faced by young men today. Palmer’s work also explored the parallels between childhood playground dynamics and adult workplace hierarchies, exemplified by his “wedgie playsuit.” His win clearly left him genuinely surprised and touched.
Scar Kennedy brought a dose of delightful absurdity with her “Personality Hire” collection. A “lunatic office siren” was her muse, resulting in a chaotic and colorful aesthetic. Think glittery pom-poms, repurposed telephone cords woven into fabric, and a general air of playful rebellion. Kennedy’s work, influenced by Matty Bovan, offered a refreshing take on the office siren trend.
Jane Fu, a CSM graduate herself, explored the concept of the “hunter” through a technically impressive collection inspired by her Inner Mongolian heritage. Blending urban tailoring with outdoor apparel, Fu’s designs featured angular silhouettes, lightweight tech fabrics, and intricate constructions. One standout piece: padded cargo trousers with pop-out panels, a design that likely caught the eye of Stone Island, who had previously offered Fu a job.
Several designers, grappled with the influence of AI, using it as both inspiration and a point of departure. Alison Keogh and Kate Dewar, for instance, attempted to recreate the distorted versions of menswear staples generated by AI.
On the other hand, Gleba delves into the life of the Polish dancer Nijinsky, based on the diary he kept. A path that has led him to visit the archive of Rambert, the oldest dance company in Great Britain. “This is the first collection I have made with so many looks and part of the challenge is to organise, sew all the garments in the right time, get the materials…” A process during which his garments have taken on a much more fluid and three-dimensional form and in which he highlights the importance of reading. Oriol Clavell, a 23-year-old Catalan designer, also impressed with his exploration of queer identity through draping, 3D printing, and upcycled materials creating unique silhouettes that made you enter Oriol’s universe.
The CSM MA show consistently delivers fire collections and talent, and this year was no exception. Take a look at the collections below.
PHOTO CREDITS: Vogue Runway / Isidore Montag
