Referencing a horror/mystery film from 1919.
Translating the nightmarish, distorted world presented in Robert Wiene’s ‘The Cabinet of Dr. Caligari’ from 1919, PARIAH CORP. take on German Expressionism from the film to create deformed shapes and silhouettes for their upcoming Spring/Summer 2023 collection.
Shot by Joseph Delaney, the lookbook gives off an eerie vibe, not only through the unusually cut clothing but through the lightwork that creates ominous shadows as well as the frightening expressions worn by the models. The capsule itself shows us several examples of traditional silhouettes reimagined through absurd proportions and pattern cutting that creates unusual silhouettes that take from some of Margiela’s earlier work. These references can be seen in Look 1 where a button-up shirt is pulled over the head to create a hooded frame for the face and a typical suit trouser is remixed to be a fitted jumpsuit, creating an entirely unique take on a shirt and tie look.
Beyond this, the definition of the power shoulder is taken to a whole new level as shoulders are heavily padded to protrude outwards and even upwards. There’s even a shirt with three collars that gives a typical shirt open shoulders and a widened cut to create a modular piece that can be styled in various ways.
Check out the lookbook below.
PHOTO CREDIT: PARIAH CORP.
