PAUSE Highlights: Top Copenhagen Fashion Week Moments

Copenhagen Fashion Week SS25 once again solidified its position as a growing global fashion hub, showcasing a compelling blend of sustainability, innovation, Scandinavian minimalism, and this season – surprisingly – maximalism! The Danish capital played host to a dynamic line-up of established and emerging designers, who collectively presented a vision of Spring/Summer 2025 that was both forward-thinking and rooted in the region’s distinctive aesthetic.

Han Kjøbenhavn unveiled its co-ed Spring/Summer 2025 collection against a dramatic backdrop. The show took place in a gritty, industrial setting on the outskirts of Copenhagen. The collection was an ode to the designers youth and friendships he formed back then.

As the skies clouded over and rain loomed in the air, the opening look matched the scene immensely. A sculpted dress made entirely from faux fur featuring an extreme plunge neckline immediately stole the show. As the event progressed, an array of dramatic sculptural dresses took centre stage, paired with heavy-duty boots and exaggerated shoulder silhouettes. The collection showcased a recurring use of distressed denim, cosy faux fur, and edgy faux leather. “Denim and faux leather play a big role in this collection, as they are personal references to my younger years, and the outfits the kids wore at the local mall,” said creative director, Jannik Wikkelsø. The collection focused on real people without the usual fashion week glitz and glamour, making it was more relatable and accessible and providing the range with a more personal voice.

Redefining spring fashion with his daring and original designs, Wikkelsø’s design style seemingly takes notes from leading legends like Rick Owens. However, his exploration of unfamiliar elements is intriguing and significantly expands his stylistic range. Filled with nostalgia, the show was definitely one of the best moments of the week.

(di)vision – in collaboration with skincare brand The Ordinary – transported guests to a futuristic metropolis with their Spring/Summer 2025 runway show, titled “The Dream of Steam City.” The show, hosted at the avant-garde Art Maze, merged cutting-edge fashion and groundbreaking skincare in a celebration of integrity, creativity, and an urban spirit.

A bold fusion of menswear and womenswear, the collection reimagined fashion through upcycling and collaboration. Inspired by the chaotic energy of urban life and the playful world of video games, the effort seamlessly blended grunge with fairy-tale romance and a nostalgic nod to Tokyo street style. Layering was key to creating the visually arresting looks in the collection, with upcycled vintage denim, lace, jersey, and leather at the forefront of various looks. Animal prints, plaid, and Y2K accessories injected a dose of playful energy, while “happy grunge” redefined the genre with vibrant hues and whimsical patterns.

Among the striking designs was a head-to-toe look in The Ordinary’s iconic teal blue, followed by an innovative ensemble crafted entirely from the brand’s packaging. This revolutionary piece showcased (di)vision’s ingenuity and The Ordinary’s commitment to sustainability, proving that upcycled fashion can be truly extraordinary.

Merging the tenderness of human compassion with the ingenuity of the animal world. Henrik Vibskov’s Spring/Summer 25 collection was inspired by the hand – a symbol of care, kindness, and adaptability – and celebrated the beauty of empathy and the power of versatility.

The “Orchestra of the Soft Assistance” collection features flowing silhouettes and transformative patterns, embodied in versatile garments. The classic check is deconstructed: a jacquard weave blends with oceanic motifs, while a knit variation dissolves the pattern completely. Hands become a central motif, depicted in prints as supportive fingers, mechanised factory hands, and glove-like shapes. Subtle peace messages are woven into the designs. A unique grey textile, resembling intertwined fingers, is created from a crinkled smock-like base using 30-year-old Dutel archive materials.

Exploring how hands are more than tools for action and symbols of empathy, the runway was an orchestrated moving landscape, lifted by the gentle gesture of the hand pinching the surface. A symphony of hands adapting to countless tasks, emulating how we as humans must adjust our approach to help others, responding to their evolving needs and the changing world around us.

Irish designer Sinéad O’Dwyer debuts her Spring/Summer 2025 collection, “Everything Opens to Touch,” at Copenhagen Fashion Week as the 2024 Zalando Visionary Award winner. Opera Park becomes a sultry summer dreamscape, featuring sculptures inspired by O’Dwyer’s early work and a soundscape by Witch Trials. The show culminated with London-based author Anastasiia Fedorova’s poem, recited by Cosha.

Reimagining her signature designs like shibari-inspired harnesses, fitted with new short sleeves and micro-culottes with slanted rara ruffles, O’Dwyer explores new materials for her fitted shirts now in deep blue denim. The perfect ensemble for a refined yet free-spirited take on the endless nights of summer. The brand has teamed up with Grounds Footwear to reinvent their iconic bubble sole. The new design features lace-up uppers inspired by Irish dancing shoes and a minimalist thong sandal.

Always known for breaking stereotypes, this season O’Dwyer – in collaboration with the Hair and Care Foundation – offered an immersive experience for blind and low-vision guests through detailed audio descriptions and tactile fabric swatches. The collaboration also saw groundbreaking representation, with blind model and TikToker Lucy Edwards walking the runway alongside her guide dog.

The standout of the collection were the platformed rubber shoe covers unveiled on the day. Models stomped slowly down the runway in cream and brown ensembles, as if walking on the moon.

For her Spring/Summer 25 collection, titled ‘Best Wishes,’ Elisabeth Stamm aimed to send a positive message to show-goers and the fashion world alike. The show began with a giggling group of children who wandered to the centre of the runway, releasing carrier pigeons into the sky.

Being a truly playful show that was set on a basketball court, the collection was an expression of youth with a punky edge, drawing inspiration from anime as models donned bleached wigs and bright blue contacts.  Oversized silhouettes were a recurring theme in the collection, from slouchy denim and boots to track jackets and rugby shirts, paired with figure hugging pieces and tencel wool wrapped around the body.

The collection oozed practicality, with utilitarian wear given a modern and everyday makeover. A personal and breezy exploration of materials, craftsmanship and of course: fun!

After 20 years at the forefront of Danish Denim, Won Hundred still manages to keep their collections fresh and inspiring. For Spring/Summer 25, Nikolaj Nielsen, founder and creative director explores the “imperfect in the perfect,” delving into distressed washes and intentional flaws.

The show took place against the gritty backdrop of a vintage car dealership’s backyard with models walking past a restored Porsche serving as a striking backdrop. The collection was a juxtaposition of raw and refined, with a punk-inspired edge that mirrored the unconventional setting. Exploring a complex future, Nielsen merges rugged, rock-inspired elements with classic tailoring. This duality is evident in unexpected pairings, such as the perfect sky blue against buttery brown leather. “Asymmetrical cuts, distressed finishes, and playful leather belts infused the collection with depth,” said Nielsen.

Won Hundred seamlessly blends vintage charm with modern minimalism, creating pieces that effortlessly transition from past to present. Each design celebrating individuality, embracing imperfection and asymmetry to craft a unique story.