A Look Back: 2024’s Biggest Fashion Industry Shake-Ups

Autumn/Winter 2024 has proven to be a season of transition, particularly for creative directors. Over the past few months, many prominent figures in fashion have announced their departures. On the 12th of December, the question of who would succeed Virginie Viard at Chanel was finally answered when Matthieu Blazy revealed that he was leaving Bottega Veneta for the iconic French house. British designer Louise Trotter was subsequently appointed to replace Blazy. Just a day earlier, John Galliano bid farewell to Maison Margiela, after a decade at the avant-garde label.

In November, Peter Do exited Helmut Lang after less than two years at the helm of the New York-based brand. This unexpected news coincided with Phillip Lim’s announcement that he would be stepping down from 3.1 Phillip Lim, which he co-founded with Wen Zhou in 2005. October also brought about some major shifts: Hedi Slimane parted ways with Céline and Kim Jones resigned from his role as artistic director of Fendi womenswear.

There isn’t a clear-cut explanation behind this recent wave of personnel changes. It could be due to periods of poor sales or simply because designers hope to establish their own labels or join other luxury houses. Whatever the reason, in an industry driven by a continuous slew of fresh ideas, this game of musical chairs moves at a dizzying pace. Even among fashion insiders, it’s becoming increasingly difficult to keep track of a creative director’s comings and goings.

PHOTO CREDIT: Yves Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta and @pppiccioli

So when did all of this upheaval begin? Some trace it back to 2022 when Kering confirmed that Alessandro Michele would leave Gucci after a seven-year run where he transformed the brand with his maximalist aesthetic. Sabato De Sarno, Valentino’s former director of men’s and women’s collections, was named Michele’s successor in January 2023. Pierpaolo Piccioli departed Valentino in March 2024, only for Michele to replace him. If you found any of that hard to follow, we don’t blame you.

As 2024 draws to a close, PAUSE breaks down this year’s biggest fashion industry shake-ups.

In March, Pierpaolo Piccioli left Valentino after 25 years at the company. Piccioli joined the luxury label in 1999 as an accessory designer alongside Maria Grazia Chiuri. The duo were eventually appointed co-creative directors in 2008, resulting in a significant turnaround for the brand. In 2016, Piccioli became the sole creative director when Chiuri moved to Dior. Under the Italian designer’s stewardship, Valentino became synonymous with romantic silhouettes, diverse model casting and a special shade of fuchsia pink.

PHOTO CREDIT: @pppiccioli

Virginie Viard revealed she was leaving Chanel in June, after spending over 30 years at the Maison. Viard was a close collaborator of the late Karl Lagerfeld and succeeded him in 2019, marking the first time a female designer led the luxury house since its founder, Gabrielle Chanel. In 2022, Viard made history again by showing Chanel’s Métiers d’Art collection in Senegal’s capital, Dakar. When Viard vacated the role of artistic director, speculation began to swirl over who would fill the position.

PHOTO CREDIT: Marc Piasecki/Getty Images

June also saw Dries Van Noten retire from his namesake label. After working in the industry for 38 years, he bowed out as creative director with his Men’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection. However, Van Noten will remain involved in DVN’s beauty business and stores. Renowned for his craftsmanship, bold hues, exuberant prints and embroideries, the Dutch designer’s legacy will be tough to follow. Van Noten’s successor is yet to be named, but in a statement, he expressed that he wants to “…leave room for a new generation of talents to bring their vision to the brand.”

PHOTO CREDIT: Getty Images

As the end of John Galliano’s contract with Maison Margiela drew near, many wondered if his Artisanal Couture Spring 2024 collection for the French fashion house was his swansong. The Gibraltar-born designer confirmed this with a goodbye post on Instagram on the 11th of December. First named creative director in 2014, Galliano’s appointment at Maison Margiela was not without controversy. Previously designing at Dior, Galliano’s 14-year tenure abruptly ended in 2011 when reports of his antisemitic and racist remarks in Paris came to light. Since then, he’s focused on rehabilitating his image and making amends for his behaviour, allowing his work to speak for itself. Widely regarded as one of the most talented couturiers of today, his cultural impact can’t be overstated. Whoever follows in his footsteps at Margiela will certainly have some big Tabi shoes to fill.

PHOTO CREDIT: Getty Images

Hedi Slimane, Simon Porte Jacquemus, Pierpaolo Piccioli and Matthieu Blazy were some of the frontrunners rumoured to take the top job at Chanel. On the 12th of December, industry gossip was put to rest when the French-Belgian designer emerged victorious. Blazy joined Bottega Veneta in 2021 after Daniel Lee, his predecessor, moved to Burberry. While Lee is credited for revitalising the Italian brand, Blazy’s four-year spell brought fresh innovation, showcasing his flair for craftsmanship and fabric manipulation right from the start. His debut Autumn/Winter 2022 collection featured white tank tops and jeans rendered in soft leather – a masterful illusion. Bottega Veneta is one of Kering’s top performers and Blazy’s impressive track record and innovative vision will undoubtedly stand him in good stead at Chanel.

PHOTO CREDIT: Getty Images