Milan, We are Here.
Milan has always been one of the top fashion weeks—and it’s not just about strolling through its historic streets, admiring iconic architecture, or savouring a glass of wine with incredible food and street music. It’s about fashion. Home to over a century of heritage and some of the biggest names in the industry, Milan consistently delivers standout moments. This season was no exception. From milestone celebrations like Dsquared2’s anniversary and Fendi’s 100-year mark to bittersweet farewells, including Lucie and Luke Meier’s final collection for Jil Sander, and the growing buzz of a new era at Gucci—A LOT happened this Fall/Winter 2025 season.
PAUSE takes a deep dive into the unmissable moments of Milan Fashion Week. Take a look below.
Gucci
Opening Milan Fashion Week this season was different. After the departure of Sabato de Sarno, the brand hasn’t confirmed any directive creator, and what comes up with that—collections designed by the house team. Taking away the concept settled of ANCORA, the green is now the main colour of the brand. For the Fall/Winter 2025 collection, fashion’s current fascination with the mod jet-set ’60s and the bohemian ’70s continued at Gucci, where the design team masterfully blended both eras. The show, set against a green-carpeted runway shaped like the iconic interlocking-G logo, opened with a live performance of an original composition by Justin Hurwitz. The collection showcased a delightful mix of styles, from mod shifts with oversized buttons and jaunty caps to shimmering disco jumpsuits, burnt-orange dresses, and backless lamé gowns that evoked the American glamour. A contemporary touch was added with sheer motifs, appearing in lace-inset slip-dresses, gowns, and see-through beaded skirts, for men the delivery could be only translate into tailored suits, monochrome and styled with coats.
Bold colour combinations, such as bright green with purple and pale pink with red, along with pops of chartreuse and blue, further enhanced the collection’s vibrant aesthetic. As expected, the accessories were a highlight, featuring oversized sculptural gold pendants and chokers, ladylike box purses, and unexpected fuzzy bags and shoes. The colourful tights trend also made a prominent appearance, offering an accessible way to incorporate Gucci’s signature style into any wardrobe.
Sportmax
For Fall/Winter 2025, Sportmax focused on the modern woman’s evolving needs, delivering smart, practical, and luxurious pieces. Instead of whimsical themes, the collection emphasised innovative fabric manipulation, prioritising texture and shape. True to the brand’s ethos, the designs were made for women shaping their own narratives, with standout pieces showcasing creative execution.
Architectural outerwear was a key highlight, offering effortless chic. A striking cream faux fur coat with a crocodile-patterned texture wrapped the body like armour, while the ever-popular scarf coat added practicality and flair. Flowing, floor-length day dresses exuded ease, while fringe details danced on sleeves, hems, and bags. Loose calf boots, some cut extra high with slouchy leather folds, gave a fresh twist to boho style. High collars on shearling jackets and leather dresses, along with voluminous faux fur coats, added drama. Finishing touches like S-hardware handbags and layered fabric details transformed the ordinary into something extraordinary.
Dsquared2
Starting with brands anniversaries, Dsquared2 definitely delivered a timeless collection where excess is everything. From Doechii opening the show to NLE Choppa and Naomi Campbell, and even the presentation of JT and Doechii (we can’t stop singing “Alter Ego”), to mark the brand’s 30th anniversary, designer duo Dean and Dan Caten are putting on a spectacular Fall/Winter 2025-2026 show; in the heart of Milan Fashion Week.
In a nightclub-inspired Milanese venue, Dsquared2 invited show-goers to a New York warehouse under the name “Dsquared2 Bros Co.” An entourage of vehicles followed behind her (taxi cabs and old-time limos among them) to drop off starry names—Alex Consani, Irina Shayk, Amelia Gray, Tyson Beckford, Alton Mason, basically nothing but top models—on the runway. Their garb spanned Dsquared2 signatures, including hyper-masculine outerwear, tough Western fits, double-take-worthy denim, girly feather pieces and skin-revealing showtime fits. Notably, the collection also housed an onslaught of collaborations with labels including Magliano, Vaquera, Bettter, Ducati, and Kiss—each of which breathed new life into archival Dsquared2 ensembles. Belts, furs, shiny garments, cowboy hats, leather. Basically a resume of all the eras of Dsquared interpreted.
In the closing sequence, Brigitte Nielsen, disguised as a police officer, walked the runway with the Caten brothers in handcuffs. Breaking out from their shackles, Dean and Dan lead the runway’s concluding party—made memorable by a fame-filled performance by Doechii and JT, who were surrounded by the spectacle’s all-star cast, was it the most fun moment of all fashion week? Perhaps.
Fendi
If one moment stood out during fashion week, it has to be the celebration of the 100th anniversary of Fendi. With a standing ovation for Silvia Venturini, her grandchildren opening the show, a star-studded front row, and a collection that was undeniably one of the season’s best, Fendi delivered a masterclass in heritage and innovation. Rich silhouettes, house codes displayed across 86 looks, and an exquisite selection of textures defined the collection. Silvia Venturini Fendi’s vision, a blend of personal memories and forward-thinking design, transformed Milan’s Spazio into a nostalgic yet futuristic realm, echoing the historic Roman salons where the Fendi legacy began.
The Fendi Fall/Winter 2025-2026 collection was a symphony of textures and colors, from primal shearlings mimicking luxurious furs to marbled plissé dresses and leather patchworks. Tailoring prowess shone in bracelet-sleeve blazers and deconstructed wool coats, while trench coats and shearling stoles paid homage to Italian power dressing. The accessories, a blend of retro-futuristic designs, featured the new FENDI Giano purse, the revived Spy Bag, and reimagined icons like the Peekaboo and Baguette. Delfina Delettrez Fendi’s jewelry collection, with its fur-like textures and shimmering details, added the final touch of opulence, making the centenary celebration a truly unforgettable moment.
Jil Sander
The Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2025 show took place just hours before the announcement of Lucie and Luke Meier’s departure. What seemed like a presentation of their latest collection unexpectedly became their final farewell, closing an eight-year chapter at the brand.
The collection, dominated by dark, powerful silhouettes, served as a fitting culmination of the aesthetic they had meticulously cultivated. While echoes of their earlier, more colourful and sensual designs lingered, the focus shifted towards the sharp, rock-inspired allure they had recently refined. Shimmering fringes, fur-trimmed shoulders, and metallic breastplates crafted a visual language that was both artistic and formidable, a reflection of the designers themselves. Satin trousers, leopard-print fur coats, satin jackets, fringe-embroidered tops, and feather-adorned dresses shimmered subtly against the darkness, creating a captivating interplay of light and shadow. In essence, the collection served as a beautiful, albeit bittersweet, conclusion to the Meier era at Jil Sander, leaving a lasting impression of their distinct vision and artistic prowess.
Ferragamo
Keeping up with the list of our highlights… Maximilian Davis drew inspiration from the expressive freedom of German Tanztheater for its Fall/ Winter 2025 collection at Ferragamo, bridging the aesthetic of the 1920s and 1980s. Davis explored it through straight-cut silken slips with drop-waist lace appliqué or shearling collages. Utilitarian leathers and tailoring echoed the era’s uniform details, while dreamlike prints and surreal handbag designs, filled with fur, added a touch of the unexpected. “The surrealist idea of taking everyday objects and making them feel a little disturbed is something I feel very interesting,” Davis explained, aiming to create “a sense of discomfort in the expected.”
This same spirit of liberation resonated with the revival of Tanztheater in the 1970s and 1980s. Davis captured the poetic dualities of these performances—love and longing, freedom and control, romance and passion—through fluid satin trenches, soft cashmere juxtaposed with glossy leathers, flattened feathers, and trailing poppies. Floral motifs from Ferragamo’s 1980s campaigns and archival shoes were directly translated into footwear, with organza, leather, and satin blooms adorning almond-toe pumps and sandals. A new, elongated wedge, inspired by Salvatore Ferragamo’s mid-century innovation, added a futuristic touch. For menswear, classic brogues and booties were reimagined with zip fastenings and rugged, heavy-grained leather. Accessories featured organza flowers on evening bags, and the iconic Hug bag was doubled and belted across the body or presented as a feathered pouch, reflecting the collection’s overall spirit of artistic expression.
Bally
Bellotti’s show, “Leistung Aufführung,” masterfully played with contrasting concepts of performance. “Leistung” and “aufführung” respectively represent work-driven achievement and expressive stagecraft, a dichotomy evident throughout the collection. His mood board, featuring 1950s office scenes of productivity alongside images of Luciano Castelli in drag, highlighted this tension. The juxtaposition of structured suits and cotton totes printed with delicate wildflowers, or the unexpected bursts of fur interrupting tailored garments, exemplified Bellotti’s captivating approach. Notably, leather belts, accentuating the body with a striking precision, stood out as a powerful element, further emphasising the interplay between restraint and form. These pairings hinted at the underlying tension between discipline and liberation, a reflection of both Swiss cultural contradictions and Bellotti’s own creative desires.
This duality was further emphasised by the presence of hourglass-shaped dresses with rigid circular inserts, reminiscent of office desks, and shimmering, sequinned pieces inspired by Castelli’s flamboyant style.
Blumarine
David Koma officially debuted his first collection for Blumarine, and we must say, it was a heavenly collection. The perfect combination of the recognisable codes from the house but elevated and conceptualised under the unique mind of David Koma, you could see how effortlessly this collection came to mind, reminiscing of Koma’s opulent silhouettes and a new vision inspired by Italian movie stars. Having spent fifteen years honing his signature figure-contouring silhouettes at his namesake label, Koma immediately stamped his aesthetic on the brand. The fall/winter collection had it all, from winter-ready looks to lace tops, corsets, and a sheer bodysuit featuring a diamanté butterfly, a clear homage to Blumarine’s iconic Y2K era. Lace dominated, appearing in lingerie-inspired dresses, off-the-shoulder designs, and intricate corsets, while denim pieces adorned with 3D flowers and blingy belts catered to the brand’s intergenerational appeal, as Koma envisions designing for a mother-daughter duo.
Ribbed red skirts trimmed with fur, cinched dress paired with oversized fur coats, and the iconic Koma’s clever use of monochromatic ensembles amplified the drama of the garments. With a focus on sensuality and a touch of gothic allure, Koma’s Blumarine was a very well executed collection.
Diesel
Glenn Martens never fails to deliver a jaw-dropping show, do you remember the big inflatable that had a Guinness record? Well this season he wanted again more: Glenn Martens harnessed the artistic power of 7,800 graffiti artists worldwide, found via an open call, to transform the sculpture into this season’s community-driven installation. The Global Street Art Collective consisted of young artists from countries including India, Italy, South Africa, China, Japan, the United States, the United Arab Emirates, and Saudi Arabia who worked with full artistic freedom to paint nearly 3.2 kilometres of fabric.
Diesel’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection exemplified the best of Martens’ contrasting sartorial language. Denim was laminated, lacquered, and shredded in every which way Martens could think, as every season. The collection itself challenges convention, mixing genres and subverting traditional codes with daring deconstruction. Sharp tailoring is reimagined while raw neoprene pants remain uncut and unembellished. Skirts, trousers, and jeans drop to extreme low-waists, often held in place by elastic stretch bands, crafting silhouettes that feel audaciously off-balance. Experimentation runs throughout, from boiled leather and padded jackets that drape like shawls to standout accessories like the unisex bags or ultra-thick-soled shoes and Liquifie-D glasses.
MM6 Maison Margiela
Following its successful Pitti Uomo showcase, MM6 returned to Milan with a Fall/Winter 2025 collection that refined its signature subversion, drawing from Martin Margiela’s original techniques. The collection played with scale—oversized, boxy silhouettes evoked an ’80s edge, where office wear took on a playful twist, with kitten heels, pencil skirts, and button-ups transformed through padded, pillow-like shirts and dramatically draped suit jackets. Key elements like the statement shoulder pads, sheer overlays, and oversized blazers reinforced MM6’s distinctive aesthetic but gave it a new purpose.
Menswear stuck to a black-and-white palette, while womenswear introduced earthy tones—charcoal, brown, and beige—with pops of red and blue. Subtle yet striking details, from waist-cut trench coats to sharp-angled shoulders and tonal mesh overlays, added depth.
PHOTO CREDIT: Vogue Runway & Courtesy of Brands
