PAUSE Highlights: Our Favourite Picks from Paris Fashion Week

Au Revoir.

Fashion Month has finally wrapped, and all the brands, designers, and creatives have completed their tasks, presenting the Fall/Winter 2025 season. From notable debuts—like Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford and Julian Klausner at Dries Van Noten—to standout collections from Sacai and Marine Serre, the season was solid.

Running from show to show, balancing a non-stop schedule filled with croissants, coffee, and street style spotting outside the venues—we have to admit, we’ll miss this a little. But before the nostalgia sets in, PAUSE dives into our favourite Fall/Winter 2025 collections from Paris.

Writing Credit(s): Bethany Berkeley and Fernanda Callejo.

Marine Serre

Every collection has its muse, its core moment that influences the creation of a narrative, and Marine Serre’s Fall/Winter 2025 staged a captivating collision of worlds, drawing on the dreamlike contrasts of David Lynch’s cinema. Stepping beyond simple inspiration, Serre conjured a palpable atmosphere—a Lynchian dreamscape complete with claustrophobic crimson curtains and a stark, chequered floor, echoing the iconic Red Room of ‘Twin Peaks‘.

Serre, a champion of sustainable design, continued her practice of upcycling, deconstructing, and reimagining garments with a subversive touch reminiscent of the late director. While a palette of black, white, red, and upcycled denim dominated, flashes of tiger print and a striking red mesh bodysuit with a structured corset punctuated the lineup’s dreamlike quality. The collection’s strength lay in its unexpected juxtapositions: a mini body-con dress crafted from watchbands stood alongside luxurious fur coats and fuzzy stoles, creating a cast of characters with an undeniable synergy.

Enfants Riches Déprimés

One of the highlights you might have missed was Henri Alexander Levy’s deeply personal and visually arresting Fall/Winter 2025 collection. Moving beyond a simple runway presentation, Levy crafted a cinematic experience, channelling his internal battles into a darkly romantic narrative. The collection, an evolution of his signature gothic aesthetic, featured 37 meticulously styled looks, from opulent velvet gowns and sharply tailored suits to edgy leather pieces and intricately designed jewellery.

Levy’s influences—spanning the Viennese Secession, art brut, and primitive art—were evident in the rich details and hidden gems, such as an ornate silver belt and an embellished bag. The collection served as a powerful commentary on the tension between instinct and discipline and the resilience of independent creativity in the face of luxury’s dominance.

Lacoste

Pelagia Kolotouros’s ‘An Invitation’ for Lacoste’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection transformed Roland Garros Stadium into a futuristic tennis arena, marking a triumphant return to Paris Fashion Week. The Greek-American designer’s third collection masterfully blended the brand’s sporting heritage with a contemporary edge, showcasing a range of looks—from ultra-modern, puffed athletic uniforms and pristine white coats to sharply tailored pieces adorned with bedazzled crocodile emblems.

Khaki tracksuits, knitted polos, and loose-fitting trousers exuded effortless cool, while sparkling cardigans and silk dresses, accessorised with two-toned headscarves and kitten heels, injected a dose of glamour. Notably, the collection featured playful details like tennis racket-shaped bags and oversized weekenders, alongside spilled graphic crewnecks, solidifying Kolotouros’s innovative approach to Lacoste’s iconic aesthetic—proving she is indeed changing the game on and off the court.

Tom Ford

Haider Ackermann’s highly anticipated debut for Tom Ford delivered a masterfully curated collection, seamlessly blending the brand’s iconic eras with his own distinctive vision. The show opened with a striking nod to the ’90s, featuring sharp tailoring, leather accents, and minimalist silhouettes in stark black and white, punctuated by vibrant beauty looks. As the collection progressed, Ackermann subtly transitioned into a celebration of ’70s glamour, showcasing luxurious gowns in rich hues, bold suiting, and an overall sense of sophisticated exuberance.

His signature colour sensibility shone through, revitalising familiar Ford aesthetics with a fresh, contemporary edge—culminating in a debut that was both a respectful homage and a bold step forward.

Miu Miu

Miuccia Prada has always been a master of storytelling, and for Fall/Winter 2025, she turns her focus to a thoughtful, layered exploration of femininity. This season, Miu Miu steps away from the youthful, viral aesthetics of recent collections—miniskirts and ballet flats—and embraces a more mature yet equally daring vision, an evolution rather than an abandonment of the Miu Miu aesthetic. Midi skirts, asymmetrical sweaters, and slip dresses conveyed refinement, while leather jackets and fur capes added a rebellious contrast. Pale silk dresses paired with thigh-high socks, fur stoles, and top-handle bags exuded elegance, while statement outerwear and suiting were reinvented with inventive fits.

Hats of all shapes and sizes elevated accessories from accents to essentials, reinforcing the collection’s narrative of deliberate excess through fuzzy stoles, sharp cone bras, and oversized gold brooches and earrings. Footwear became a striking focal point, as vividly coloured socks were paired with everything from loafers to sneakers (perhaps a new collaboration with New Balance), cementing the collection’s bold and unconventional take on modern femininity.

Dries Van Noten

The fashion world has waited with bated breath for Julian Klausner’s debut at Dries Van Noten and as the moment finally came to pass during Paris Fashion Week, many would say that he has stepped into the storied designers shoes prestigiously.

For his first season at the helm of the brand Klausner’s focus was on opulence of times past, conveying stories through a variety of silhouettes and of course the classic tailoring the brand is so reverred for. The collection featured amplified cuffs and collars on dark outerwear, and suit linings repurposed as garments. Draped looks are enhanced with sculpted matelassé, and buttoned pant legs offer subtle reveals. Familiar shapes were transformed: coat collars become waistbands, and tailoring gains puffed sleeves. A signature full skirt in heavy wool was structured with a corset belt.

Fluid tie motifs, rich in colour and print, were transformed into draped dresses and oversized bows, embellished with crystal grids. Playful polka dots danced across silk and devoré, while a saturated palette of green, petrol, and violet contrasted with classic neutrals and a touch of ballet blush. Elsewhere, Exaggerated round-toe shoes, with stacked cuoio stilettos, reflected the collection’s techniques.

As Klausner took his bow at the end of the show, from the smile on Dries Van Noten’s face to the exquisite designs seen on the runway, it’s evident that fashions most loved brand is in safe hands.

Dries Van Noten FallWinter 2025 Collection by Julian Klausner

Louis Vuitton

For Autumn/Winter 2025 Louis Vuitton took guests to to what looked like a train station, situated next door to Gare du Nord. The space, adequately tited, L’Étoile du Nord is a secret station that still preserves the excitement of 19th-century rail travel. Here Nicolas Ghesquière unveiled his latest collection, transporting guests to a place of departures and arrivals, where strangers entertwine and weave stories together.

The set, designed by Es Devlin was certainly a sight to behold, representing a busy commuter area, models raced down the runway clad in looks that were imbued with ’80s spirit and defied trends with a diverse range of silhouettes. Sheer rain jackets, leather cargo Bermuda shorts, bejewelled velvet dresses, neck ruffs, and buffalo plaid capes created a striking visual narrative.

Models sported oversized bags and jackets, with hands tucked in pockets, defining the collection’s relaxed silhouette. Blanket scarves and thigh-high socks with ankle boots added textural interest while Logo-pocket scarves and crystal-embellished shirts provided subtle detail. Statement hats, from bucket styles to berets, were a focal point, showcasing a diverse range of headwear, but the standout pieces was in fact a bag shaped like a parisian street lamp.

As the show closed the building’s windows served as a dramatic stage for the models, who lined up and posed, facing the central runway. The Louis Vuitton AW25 show confirming once again that Maximalism once again reigns supreme.

Louis Vuitton Fall Winter 2025 Collection by Nicolas Ghesquiere featuring Felix from Stray Kids

Ann Demeulemeester

Building upon the house’s established aesthetic of androgyny and romantic darkness, Steffano Gallici continued to shape his distinct vision for Anne Demeulemeester for Autumn/Winter 2025. The collection explored the theme of wandering, both literal and metaphorical, presenting a wardrobe for the modern-day explorer who embodies their experiences through their clothing.

Each look, bearing the marks of time and use, became a narrative in itself. Distressed shearling, sharply tailored black suits, and softly faded white shirts laid the groundwork for the collection. Layering, a key element, conveyed both a sense of guardedness and delicate exposure. Fabrics underwent a visible transformation, denim aging to brown, white shirts softening to ivory, each piece developing a distinctive patina. This gradual evolution mirrored the collection’s central theme of emotional growth. Gallici artfully included contrasts throughout the collection, pairing hard and soft, masculine and feminine elements. Black-and-white palettes were softened with muted tones, adding depth. The collection’s rich textures, from rugged leathers to delicate lace, created a tactile intimacy, urging the viewer to engage with the garments through touch.

The devil was in the details. Collarless cuts, utilitarian details, and precisely tailored silhouettes spoke to a desire for a purposeful uniform. The collection also teased a highly anticipated collaboration with Ray-Ban, featuring oversized Aviator sunglasses with beaded chains. These accessories, available in black, silver, and ivory, added a touch of contemporary edge to the collection.

With this collectio, Gallici proves once again that he is not just continuing a legacy, but building upon it, and creating a new and compelling chapter for the house.

Ann Demeulemeester FallWinter 2025 collection by Stefano Gallici

Isabel Marant

Isabel Marant, now under the creative direction of both Marant and Kim Bekker, brought a sharp new edge to the brand’s Parisian cool for Fall/Winter 2025. drawing influence from 1980s English underground culture, the collection featured punk and new wave references such as tartan, studded leather, and ‘pierced’ knits. Pinstripe suits offered tailored precision, while asymmetrical tops hinted at biker chic.

Isabel Marant’s city girl embraces this New Wave edge, blending sheer guipure, dotted leather boots, and chain accessories. Deconstructed tailoring replaces traditional suits, with grunge-inspired vests. A tuxedo jacket is paired with lace ruffles, while sheer layers and lingerie details give off a bohemian vibe. The brand’s signature masculine-feminine contrast is mirrored in the men’s collection, while a couture feel—through draping and layered materials—unites both.

Accessories were crucial in defining the collection’s narrative. Belts provided structure to relaxed silhouettes, and jewellery and bags showcased the brand’s talent for modernising vintage influences. The collection’s contrast was achieved through denim, lace, and frilled details. Marant’s renowned styling expertise ensured each look appeared as a seamless, curated wardrobe addition.

Isabel Marant Fall Winter 2025 collection featuring Seonghwa from Ateez

Sacai

Chitose Abe’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection for Sacai offered a nuanced exploration of modern femininity. With a sensitive approach, informed by the current political landscape, she reimagined the brand’s signature hybrid aesthetic, emphasising the female form through innovative silhouettes.

Abe updated classic silhouettes with innovative twists, showcasing a modern femininity. Wool blazers featured integrated scarves, and button-downs flowed into embellished corset skirts. Ribbed hoodies met reflective cargos, and fluffy accessories transformed into ruffled dresses making the collection every bit as versatile as the brand is renowned for. Hpwever, this season, Abe’s usual oversized silhouettes were replaced with more fitted designs that followed the body’s contours, maintaining a beautiful look with asymmetrical shapes and pops vibrant colours splashed here and there.

Using her signature hybrid style, Abe layered and combined a range of textures and forms: wool fur throws, heavy knits, fragmented shearling, puffer coats, and deconstructed suiting. Wool suiting panels were designed to be draped or integrated with chiffon and knits, often resulting in a poncho silhouette. This swathed shoulder detail is set to be a prominent and recurring motif for the season.

Sacai Fall Winter 2025 collection by Chitose Abe

Coperni

Sebastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant staged a unique spectacle, deploying over 200 gamers in a real-world competition as models navigated their ranks, showcasing powerful womenswear designs.

The collection took inspiration from 90s LAN party culture, a time when digital spaces built real connections, contrasting with today’s isolating digital saturation. The show captured the energy of those gatherings: tangled cables, glowing screens, and a raw enthusiasm for discovery. A balance of precision and defiance defined the collection, where sharp tailoring met raw, DIY-influenced garments. Sensual layers provided a striking counterpoint. Oversized jackets, featured strong shoulders and innovative elasticated hand straps, injected a technical twist into classic power dressing.

The collection’s uniform theme was furthered by leather and suede cargo tights, while asymmetrical zip parkas, reminiscent of the velocity and movement found in classic snowboarding games, added a dynamic edge. A futuristic yet grounded aesthetic was achieved through a sci-fi colour palette of pale greens, subdued yellows, and rich browns.

Coperni’s signature Swipe bag received a nostalgic makeover, becoming a Tamagotchi case, reminiscent of the early 2000s phenomenon. In a significant move, the brand also partnered with Ray-Ban and Meta, producing the inaugural fashion collaboration for Ray-Ban Meta glasses. This limited-edition Wayfarer, with its Transparent Black frame and Grey Mirrored lenses, highlighted the tension between transparency and reflection.

PHOTO CREDITS: Vogue Runway & Courtesy of Brands

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