The Swedish city known for its bold, curated street style — home to Acne Studios and Our Legacy — made its return to the fashion week calendar last week after a six-year hiatus.
In Stockholm, where the winter periods are short, dark and quiet, the summer months allow the city to come alive again and experience the new and developing brands breaking into fashion. Taking a new approach with the Association of Swedish Fashion Brands emerging as a construct to promote new designers into the industry, press, buyers and journalists were invited to discover what these labels have to offer.
Playing with character imagination, contemporary menswear designs and tailored minimalism, below are three brands that put Stockholm’s fashion talent back on the map after a long overdue break…
Mayz
Starting strong on day one of Stockholm Fashion Week, the afternoons must-see show was courtesy of Mayz, who held their ‘Ode to the Ocean’ show in a ‘cabin in the woods’, an idyllic summer setting close to the water. The founders, Kevin Mukuri and Mayssa Fikah had an expressive eye behind their Stockholm Fashion Week debut. The AW25 collection displayed colourful womenswear linked to the metaphorical subject of water as an emotion, from marine creatures to references of a “Pandora portrait”. Kevin tells PAUSE Magazine that the signature Mayz “Piazzo” monogram was reworked into this collection.
Stand-out looks included the cream and black monogram puffer jacket worn with matching shorts and handbag, as well as the bikini, which took the print and turned the colouring to blue and white for a summer revival feel. Swimwear is a product Kevin says he is testing out, and so far, the reaction has been demanding. The accessories line is doing particularly well since the show and the world of Mayz is growing since the collaboration between Kevin’s concept and Mayssa’s illustrative designs brought the collection to life. One of the most visually engaging collections of the week with a strong sense of identity and theme, Mayz is a brand that has the potential to succeed and relate to markets in London, the West Coast of U.S and Milan.
PHOTO CREDIT: Lanna Olsson
Studio Constance
Studio Constance was born in Los Angeles, but soon found its true home in Stockholm, where it could connect more deeply with its target audience. Founder and Creative Director Rebecca Dovenyard Almerg challenged the expected minimalist Scandi aesthetic with her SS26 collection, titled ‘Double Space.’
The brand is for the luxury-wearing, confident yet emotional consumer with a strong personality. Produced in Turkey and Italy, the brand is too inspired by its Swedish heritage. “We want to build a circular, sustainable collection of high-quality materials”, she expresses.
The primary fabrics consist of leather, shearling, wool and denim, with an impressive show of deadstock material clutch bags that elevated its neutral colour palette. With the experimental use of styling, think upside-down sweaters draped over shoulders, leather silver buckle mule heels, and mesh two pieces, the collection screams sexy yet sophisticated, all whilst staying true to its roots.
PHOTO CREDIT: Courtesy of brand
Past Tense
Menswear label, Past Tense, was relaunched two years ago by Victor Lindh & Adrien Forray.
The brand utilised STHFW to present a collection that elevated their identity from a clean corporate look into a redirection of resort-wear for the season , all while maintaining their signature tailored wardrobe essentials. The new collection flows seamlessly with a sense of fluidity, staying true to its minimalist roots whilst embracing personal expression and a core commitment to sustainability.
The use of the tencel material in the pieces stands out, as the softness of the trousers and shirt co-ords reflects a flowy summer breezy look on the eye. Past Tense excels in creating products for wearability but also retains the essence of premium quality and longevity in a customer’s wardrobe that can be reworn each season with an open-mindedness of how it can be styled for AW or SS.
The influence of French and Swedish cultures from the designers and their experience in Italian craftsmanship has evolved Past Tense into an internationally sought-after name. Debuting footwear for the first time in this collection, Victor tells PAUSE Magazine he is confident in the success of the leather-studded mule worn with the looks on the runway and has hopes for a womenswear line in the future after many requests.
Aside from the core pieces, the handbags are one to keep an eye out for, as the brand prides themselves into taking storytelling to a new level when it comes to accessories.
PHOTO CREDIT: Courtesy of brand
Whilst some shows proved their designs and creative processes as more enhanced than others, the Monday to Thursday schedule for Stockholm Fashion Week was brimming with fresh names and different locations across the city to widen the cultural moments that took place across the week. Perhaps inspired by the programs and support London Fashion Week has provided to NewGen designers, or by the ambition to grow local brands into global names like Toteme and Byredo, the Stockholm government backed the initiative and helped fund last week’s international programme.
If PAUSE noticed one thing, it was that Stockholm’s emerging fashion brands have a compelling story to tell. While their more established parent labels pave the way into international markets, these younger names are finding their own footing, starting with a sense of place and a community ready to embrace their vision. Stockholm Fashion Week provided the ideal platform for this rising talent to showcase their creativity, and the results point to a bright and exciting future for the city’s fashion scene.
