Back to Tokyo.
The early 2000s saw a global explosion of unique street styles, each reflecting the culture of its city, from Atlanta to the Bronx. Among them, Japanese street fashion: spanning from the relaxed, functional silhouettes of traditional garments to the bold, futuristic looks of cosplay, captured worldwide attention. With a style that truly has it all, who does fashion better than Japan?
This season, Rakuten Fashion Week’s Spring/Summer 2026 collections hit the runway with a range of distinct and diverse proposals. If you missed it, don’t worry. PAUSE dives into our top highlights from the shows.
Orimi
Founded in 2020, creative director Kenta Orimi has always known the clear vision of his brand: To share his experiences culturally and personally to the world. Thats why his approach to this season had a very cautious work behind the scenes. Goth meets Tokyo streetsyle with silhouettes that feel relaxed yet luxury. Looks were an ode to construction and reinvention, like the typical suits but with different cuts and silhouettes it was an experimentation of geometry and elevating the basics. Belts, buttons were key elements to rethink the looks, jumpsuits that at first you would think are a hoodie and pants, leather pieces and the timeless palette for this collection was more than enough to make this an extraordinary show.
Yueqi Qi
Equinox is here and we are living for it. Taking over Ruken Fashion Week, Yueqi Qi deserves to be on this list. A graduate of Central Saint Martins and semifinalist for the LVMH Prize in 2022 her design philosophy centers on reimagining traditional craftsmanship, particularly with delicate beading techniques, and developing innovative fabrics that push the boundaries of womenswear.
This collection showcased a blend of delicate and edgy elements. Lace and sheer fabrics were a focal point, appearing in dresses and other garments to create a sense of ethereal femininity. Qi also used a patchwork technique on pieces like shirts and a stunning corseted dress, effortlessly combining different fabrics for an effortlessly cool vibe. Sportswear was subtly integrated, with items like football-style shorts re-imagined with her unique touch. The styling was everything, with models wearing fairy wings and headphones alongside perfectly crafted leather sets. The show culminated in a masterfully constructed, all-red corseted dress, highlighting the designer’s incredible craftsmanship and attention to detail.
Ancellm
Ancellm, a Japanese brand from Okayama, has been renowned for its locally crafted garments and innovative distressing techniques. Under the direction of founder Kazuya Yamachika, the brand has built a reputation for its uniquely worn-in aesthetic, which is achieved through processes like bleaching, sanding, and paint-splattering.
The collection itself emphasised denim, layering, and loose-fitting silhouettes with a prominent boho-chic vibe. It featured oversized linen tailoring, raw hems, and a variety of distressed fabrics and knits. Yamachika’s focus on color as a study was evident, with a palette that transitioned from earthy browns to mustard yellows, deep reds, and blanched denim blues. While the collection showcased Ancellm’s fabric expertise and colour development, its extensive 40-look presentation, which lacked a clear thematic narrative, seemed to prove the point that sometimes the focus should be on the technique rather than on the theme.
Kamiya
We’ve been following the footsteps of Koji Kamiya, founder of the brand, whose grunge and rockstar aesthetic has always influenced his work. This time was no exception: Aerosmith singer Steven Tyler was the starting point for the collection.
The show carried a punk and sexy vibe. Denim appeared in various forms, from distressed to surprisingly bandana-printed. Bohemian lustiness came through in the prints, which were the main highlight of the collection: faded cherry sweatpants, cobalt shorts and shirts, and bright tangerine jackets. A leather motorcycle jacket with the words “Kamiya Leathers” is definitely on our wishlist. Accessories like studded belts, made in collaboration with Hollywood Trading Company, stood out. The shoes, featuring chunky silhouettes with boxing-style boots and colourful sneakers, elevated the looks.
Attachment
If you find yourself needing a quiet luxury, timeless wardrobe, Attachment has just given you the chance. Designer Koki Enomoto who took over the label from the late Kazuyuki Kumagai in 2022 unveiled a collection called Easily, inspired by Giorgio Armani’s 1980s soft tailoring and Richard Gere in American Gigolo. He softened suit jackets by removing linings and power shoulders, introduced silk-cashmere sweaters, and added sensual touches like open-toed leather sandals, pajama shirts, and casually tossed neckties. A palette of coral, black, charcoal, soft blue, and brown kept the mood refined yet relaxed, showing Enomoto’s gift for updating minimalism with effortless, on-trend style.
Mukcyen
At just 27, Yuka Kimura is shaking up Tokyo Fashion Week with her brand Mukcyen, bringing a sharp mix of dark fantasy, body-conscious design, and techno-goth edge to the runway. Dresses, leather harnesses, corset jerkins, and chainmail detailing built a medieval-vampire aesthetic, while layered pieces formed part of her “second skin series,” infused with oil for a skincare-meets-fashion twist. The runway placed strong emphasis on silhouette and sensuality, with fabrics that revealed the body and carried an undeniable sexy edge.
Photo credits: Vogue Runway
