PAUSE Highlights: Our Favourite Collections From Milan Fashion Week

One of the best things that happened at Ferragamo was Maximilian Davis. He understands the brand’s strongest codes, yet every season he manages to turn them into a one-of-a-kind wardrobe that feels completely new without ever feeling forced. The styling is magnifique. For SS27, the biggest standout was his innovation with materials, particularly latex, seen across trench coats, dresses and more, bringing a new attitude to strong silhouettes that he knows exactly how to execute.

Leather and belts, two of the house’s strongest icons, were interpreted in different ways, becoming not only accessories but almost part of the body itself. The cut-out dress silhouettes were everything, highlighting Davis’s ability to deliver a proper fit, followed by fluid, beautifully draped dresses that brought softness and movement to the collection.

View the full collection on PAUSE here.

Where previous seasons leaned into volume and drama, this collection worked in the opposite direction, finding techniques that delivered lightness without sacrificing the handwork Bottega is known for. Intrecciato appeared in every variation the atelier could conceive, knitwear moved with an ease that belied its construction, tailoring held its precision without stiffness, and leather was treated with a confidence that made it feel almost weightless.

Bottega’s beige-and-white restraint has become its own kind of signature: quiet luxury. This season, Trotter let that restraint crack, just slightly, with pops of purple and red pushing through the neutral base like punctuation in a sentence that was previously all lowercase. But if there is one takeaway to leave with, it is unmistakably the season of fringe. It was not simply a reference or a closing-look flourish, but a through line reinforcing movement and texture across the collection.

View the full collection on PAUSE here.

Demna presented his most complete vision for Gucci yet. Just hours before the show, he shared a note explaining that after spending the past year studying the house, he had finally understood what Gucci really was from his point of view : going back to its origins, its Italian identity and the characters that make up the Gucci world. His Gucci is old money, Italian aristocracy, rich grandmothers spending hours in the store, polished men’s tailoring, sexiness and a certain kind of inherited eccentricity. The set made that idea literal: the entire space was transformed into a Gucci store, turning the collection into a vision of what Demna sees as the future of the house.

The show opened with menswear, with polo shirts, buckled details, sharp tailoring and giant coats, before moving into a cast of very different Gucci characters: from old-money dressing and oversized outerwear to slinky dresses, pencil skirts and fur. What makes SS27 feel different from his previous outings is that the references finally stop competing with each other and start making sense as one Gucci universe. Demna is not trying to invent a new Gucci from scratch; he is figuring out how to make all the existing versions of Gucci: the aristocratic, the sexy, the commercial, the eccentric coexist.

 

Moschino has always been defined by its playful, whimsical and eccentric energy, from Franco Moschino himself to the eras of Jeremy Scott and Adrian Appiolaza. But SS27 marks a completely new chapter for the house, with Sunnei founders Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo making their debut as creative directors  and the only official creative-director debut of Milan’s season. The duo looked at Franco’s way of thinking, bringing his irony into a much more contemporary wardrobe. Even the show concept reflected that idea, with real people walking across the rooftop of a Milan parking garage as models moved in the opposite direction, placing Moschino directly within everyday life.

The collection itself feels more restrained than the Moschino we have become used to, with simpler silhouettes and styling, but the eccentricity is still there in the details. Colour remains quintessentially Moschino, while exaggerated proportions, sculptural panniers, unusual draping, fringe and playful accessories like the bags kept the collection from ever becoming too serious.

Roberto Cavalli had to be on our highlights from the season, bringing the Maison’s unmistakable maximalism to life with Fausto Puglisi’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection. Inspired by the contrasts of Los Angeles, the show reimagined the Cavalli archive through layered prints, fluid silhouettes, sharp tailoring, animal motifs, feathers and glamorous embellishments, an exuberant celebration of individuality while also having back their iconic 00´s era back or at least we felt it, it’s all about sensuality and freedom of expression.