Fashion Meets Berlin Once Again.
Going through fashion weeks one by one, it’s time to talk about Berlin Fashion Week. The German capital—an epicenter of subcultures, music, art, and an emerging hub of talent—never fails to deliver. From the euphoria of rave nights to the sudden waves of nostalgia that hit at 4 a.m., this season brought diverse approaches and fresh creative ideas, delivering collections that went straight to our Fall/Winter 2025 moodboards.
Pause takes a deep dive into our highlight collections from Berlin Fashion Week:
GMBH
One of the highlights from this season goes to GmbH’s Fall 2025 collection, presented at Berlin Fashion Week, which offered a thoughtful response to these “serious, even terrifying times,” as the designers put it. Inspired by Gunvor Hofmo’s poetry and a deep dive into their own archives, the collection explored the idea of parallel realities. The show was split into two parts: the first, a darkly regal offering of black furs, leather, and tailored pieces, and the second, a more vibrant display featuring bold red coats, statement knits with slogans like “Refuse To Trade With the Enemy,” and protective, ballooning bomber jackets. This introspective collection wasn’t about nostalgia, but rather a search for balance and purpose through precise tailoring, structured silhouettes, and a renewed focus on the empowering act of dressing. The designs, reflecting Hofmo’s themes of fragmented perception, aimed to reclaim a sense of self-worth in a world that often diminishes it.
HADERLUMP
Another highlight of the season was HADERLUMP’s AW25 collection, “SOLIVAGANT,” presented in Berlin’s historic S-Bahn Werk Schöneweide. Guests were transported to the show via historic S-Bahn trains, setting the stage for a collection that explored the romance of 1950s train travel. Creative director Johann Ehrhardt’s designs, crafted from wool, denim, and upcycled materials sourced from eBay, evoked the era’s aesthetics with a palette of black, grey, blue, and red accents. Structured coats, tailored suits, and reimagined accessories, like a retro stroller transformed by industrial designer Marian Herget, blended historical references with contemporary design. Building on past collections’ focus on movement, identity, and craftsmanship, “SOLIVAGANT” delved into themes of solitude and personal journeys, solidifying HADERLUMP’s position as a leading voice in Berlin fashion.
LUEDER
Presenting their Fall/Winter collection titled “The Shell” it explored the complex interplay between privacy and exposure. Designer Marie Lueder’s neo-romantic vision conjured a world where historical aesthetics collided with the raw energy of underground subcultures, embodied by characters like the hooligan, the decadent romantic, and the undead teenager. Drawing inspiration from “friendly stalking” and the feeling of confinement, the collection reinterpreted 19th-century textiles, drapery, and carpet prints with a raw, futuristic sensibility offering wild silhouettes. The collection, influenced by Visconti’s Ludwig, showcased dramatic camp aesthetics and emotionally charged storytelling, further solidifying LUEDER’s
SF1OG
The Rave meets fashion week.SF1OG staged a glorious indie sleaze revival for their FW25 collection inside the legendary Berghain club. The nostalgia-fueled German label, known for blending past references with a commitment to sustainability and inclusivity, looked back to the late 2000s, specifically 2008, the year of Kanye’s Shutter Shades. SF1OG’s collection, featuring blazers, sheer tops, low-waisted trousers, leather rocker pants, and furry neckties, exuded a louche, club-ready vibe (very apropiated). A collaboration with NEWFORMAT on reimagined Shutter Shades further cemented the collection’s connection to the era. Inspired by early 2010s Camden Town misfit style and figures like Pete Doherty, the collection also incorporated repurposed uniform elements, giving them a new, non-militaristic purpose. The Berghain setting, a significant venue for the relatively young brand, provided a stark contrast between dark and light, perfectly complementing the collection’s intimate and magical vibe.
MARKE
MARKE’s Fall Winter 2025.26 collection, “Everything That Stays Is Love,” offered an introspective study of memory, longing, and time’s passage. Designer Mario Keine crafted a dreamlike narrative, balancing beauty and melancholy through silhouettes, textures, and intricate details. Inspired by figures like Miss Havisham and Stephen Tennant, the collection explored the emotional weight of nostalgia and the burden of cherished memories. Structured in three acts, the collection mirrored the stages of nostalgia, moving from the youthful lightness of soft draping and vintage jewelry embellishments to the introspection and grief of tailored mourning pieces, and finally, to the tangible decay of oversized shirting and aged fabrics. MARKE’s signature unisex approach, balancing fluidity and structure, was further enhanced by the use of deadstock materials, emphasizing the presence of the past.
RICHERT BEIL
We couldn’t miss RICHERT BEIL from our highlights from this season. Their Fall/Winter 2025 show, “MUTTER,” presented at Berlin’s Fichtebunker, explored the emotional and physical exhaustion of motherhood. The setting, a former WWII bunker that sheltered mothers and children, powerfully underscored the collection’s exploration of the pressures of nurturing, producing, and performing as a parent. Designer Beil described the collection as a response to contemporary demands and a call for acknowledging invisible labor, emotional toll, and the need for authenticity and empathy. The strained tailoring, featuring tight tank tops, enveloping dresses, concealing leather skirts, and protective overcoats, reflected this theme. The show concluded with models carrying wilting metal flowers and a harness-clad purse, circling a central angel sculpture symbolizing shelter and care.
PHOTO CREDIT: Lueder: Finnegan Koichi /Haderlump: Marc Aldinger / SF10G: Andreas Hofrichter/Marke: Showstudio / Richert Beil: Boris Marberg
