PAUSE Highlights: Our Favourite Collections From New York Fashion Week

New York Fashion Week may be over, but we can’t stop thinking about it. As always, we were all over the Big Apple, from Park Avenue to the city’s towering skyscrapers, to catch the best shows. This season featured more than 30 runway shows and presentations, making it nearly impossible to pick favourites. From Todd Snyder’s opening show to Stuart Vevers once again making a statement at Coach, and Thom Browne’s standout collection, Fall/Winter 2025 is already in full swing. PAUSE dives into the biggest NYFW highlights of the season:

Thom Browne closed out New York Fashion Week with a flight of fancy, filling his runway with graceful white origami birds and an exploration of sartorial freedom. The collection, a inventive take on his signature tailoring, showcased deconstructed suits, coats, and jackets, many adorned with vibrantly coloured birds seemingly yearning for liberation. The show opened with two “ornithologists” in grey Thom Browne uniforms, observing a flock of fashions as if studying exotic species. This theatrical framing set the stage for a collection that questioned the very nature of conformity and self-expression.

Models, sporting feathery eyelashes, showcased Browne’s mastery of checks, tweeds, plaids, argyle knits, and flannels. His signature deconstructed and exaggerated shapes were on full display, each piece a testament to his inventive tailoring and silhouette work. Fanciful dresses, petticoats, and a dramatic ball skirt added a touch of theatricality, while the colourful bird motifs, rendered in satin stitch or gold bullion embroidery, provided the collection’s most unique moments. A nod to collegiate style, including a varsity jacket emblazoned with “65” , added another layer of what we are used to see at the fashion house. Neckties repurposed into garments offered a deconstructed collegiate vibe, while other pieces showcased Browne’s signature grayscale, this time embellished with crystals in a collaboration with Swarovski.

New York Fashion Week means getting a new Luar collection, and this season, Raul Lopez delivered a powerful and deeply personal statement. The collection wasn’t just about clothes; it was a reclamation of identity, a celebration of queer joy, and a testament to the resilience of New York City’s LGBTQIA+ community. Growing up in the city during a challenging time, Lopez faced prejudice and discrimination, experiences that have profoundly shaped his creative vision. This season, he directly confronted those memories, reclaiming hurtful language and transforming it into a symbol of strength and self-acceptance.

The runway became a stage for Lopez’s personal narrative, with each look telling a story of resilience and self-expression. From a striking white crocodile suit with a daringly asymmetrical shoulder to a grey knit catsuit that playfully subverted a once-mocked gesture, the collection was full of impactful moments. Opulent textures, particularly feathers crafted in collaboration with a Schiaparelli atelier, added a touch of theatricality. But amidst the bold statements, there were also covetable pieces for Luar’s expanding clientele: perfectly cut jeans, cropped jackets, and dramatic topcoats. Wool was reimagined in unexpected ways, like a sporty quilted jacket and matching pants. The show culminated with an appearance by ballroom legend Stephanie Milan, who carried a new iteration of the iconic Ana bag, solidifying the collection’s connection to New York’s vibrant queer history. Lopez’s designs, like the “I talk s–t about you in Spanish” t-shirt paired with a dramatic feather headpiece, spoke to the multifaceted nature of identity, blending humour, defiance, and high fashion.

Stuart Vevers returned to the Park Avenue Armory with a bang, showcasing Coach’s Fall 2025 collection to a packed house of celebrities, influencers, and fashion insiders. The set, transformed with an urban, almost raw aesthetic, provided the perfect backdrop for a collection that felt both nostalgic and utterly fresh.

The collection itself was a study in contrasts, blending high fashion with a distinctly downtown edge. Distressed leathers, oversized denim, and playful graphic tops walked the runway, evoking a sense of youthful rebellion and self-expression. Luxurious materials like argyle and Lurex were reimagined with a modern twist, while familiar Coach signatures, like their leather goods, were given a fresh, playful update. Bags adorned with stuffed animals and whimsical objects made a straight declaration: “No-age” is the new fashion, blurring the lines between youthful playfulness and sophisticated style. And speaking of playful details, the eyewear was a wild offering. Chunky, colourful silhouettes added an undeniable “I am cooler than you” vibe to the looks, punctuating the collection’s youthful swagger. Vevers’ focus on heritage craftsmanship and repurposed materials underscored the brand’s commitment to sustainability and timeless style, creating a collection that felt both of the moment and built to last.

Another of our highlights from this season was Eckhaus Latta’s refreshingly honest presentation. The design duo didn’t shy away from acknowledging the anxieties of our current moment, from economic uncertainty to the constant barrage of troubling news. This frankness translated into a collection that prioritised wearability and comfort, expressed through a palette of earthy tones and deconstructed silhouettes. Layering was key, with cargo pants and asymmetrical skirts adding a touch of utilitarian chic. While the collection largely maintained its signature gender-neutral approach, a selection of floral separates, inspired by the Edward Steichen archive, offered a distinctly feminine counterpoint.

The true highlight of the show was the collaboration with Ecco Kollektive. Patch-worked leather pieces, crafted largely from dead-stock fabrics, made a powerful statement about sustainable design. From trousers and skirts to bomber hoodies, bags, and striking knee-high boots (some in vibrant fuchsia), the collaboration injected a dose of edgy cool into the collection. The show also incorporated moments of playful escapism, with one model seemingly “doomscrolling” on her phone and another carrying a cheetah-print bong—a collaboration with Gotham—that perfectly complemented his matching pants. These touches, while lighthearted, hinted at the underlying tensions of contemporary life.

Taylor Thompson’s 5000 made a striking return to New York Fashion Week, this time taking to the runway for the first time. The “Bootsy” collection, a thoughtful exploration of a Bay Area colloquialism, showcased Thompson’s continued commitment to his Oakland roots. Staged against the backdrop of the New York City skyline at the Nine Orchard Hotel, the show felt both intimate and expansive, the perfect setting for a collection that grappled with themes of identity and authenticity. The soundtrack, a mix of iconic Bay Area sounds, further immersed the audience in Thompson’s world, setting the stage for a powerful presentation of contemporary menswear.

The collection itself was a study in contrasts, juxtaposing classic tailoring with unexpected details and innovative construction. Suits, a 5000 signature, were reimagined with a “bootsy” twist, featuring ribbon ties and unique double-pocket detailing. Bleach-dyed blazers and trousers added a touch of rebellious energy, while cleverly designed Oxford shirts and layered pieces showcased Thompson’s technical skill. The collection’s standout moment came with the reveal of capes that transformed into jacket trains, a theatrical touch that underscored the show’s exploration of “bootsy” not just as slang, but as a cultural artefact.

Jane Wade’s Fall 2025 collection, “The Merger,” wasn’t just satire; it was a chillingly prescient commentary on the creeping reality of workplace surveillance. With a clever twist, models turned the cameras on the audience, flipping the script on corporate monitoring and creating an unsettlingly immersive experience. Wade’s talent for creating a distinct world was evident as she explored the hypothetical absorption of her independent brand by a monolithic corporate entity. This scenario provided a fertile ground for reimagining office-wear, resulting in a collection that dissected corporate archetypes, from the perpetually stressed intern to the ruthlessly ambitious executive.

While Wade’s signature irreverence and sultry aesthetic were still present “The Merger” signalled a notable evolution in her design. Recognising a wider audience, she balanced her playful proportions with a newfound sense of refinement. This maturity was perfectly encapsulated in a stunning oatmeal cashmere coat, featuring exaggerated shoulders, a cinched waist, and a built-in cell phone pouch – a perfect blend of high fashion and practical functionality. Wade’s humour and edge remain sharp, but her ability to seamlessly integrate irony with genuine wearability demonstrates a long-term vision.

Inspired by the stylish denizens of 1980s Saint-Germain, Todd Snyder presented his Fall/Winter 2025 collection exploring the interplay between classic dress codes and individual expression. Luxurious fabrics like velvet, silk brocade, and cashmere elevated the pieces, while a rich colour palette of emerald, aubergine, and petrol blue added a touch of vibrancy. Snyder’s vision of Parisian style translated into a range of impeccably tailored pieces, from jackets and coated cotton trench coats to double-pleated wool trousers and linen-cotton shorts. The collection seemed to whisper stories of artists, writers, and businessmen, each expressing their unique style within the framework of classic menswear. Ultimately, Snyder’s Fall 2025 collection celebrated the art of personal style, showcasing how subtle rebellion against convention can create something truly unique.