Not The Typical Schedule.
Back for another season, MODALISBOA has wrapped up yet another edition filled with captivating shows and presentations—and, of course, we were front and centre to witness it all. In recent years, Lisbon has been steadily gaining attention from international fashion enthusiasts, and it’s no surprise why. The city exudes a unique energy, blending historic architecture with a modern, ever-evolving landscape, all set against the backdrop of its stunning coastline. A hub of creativity, Lisbon continues to prove that talent is in no short supply.
As in past seasons, established designers like Luís Carvalho commanded the official schedule, but this edition saw a refreshing shift. Emerging talents, such as Bárbara Atanásio, took to the runway, bringing bold new perspectives to the scene. With an exciting mix of seasoned names and rising stars, MODALISBOA once again showcased the dynamic spirit of Portuguese fashion. PAUSE dives into our top collections from this season’s event.
Bárbara Atanásio
If we talk about our highlights from this season, Bárbara Atanásio’s latest collection, Prophecy of the Present, is a striking manifestation of her multidisciplinary approach, blending upcycling, deconstruction, and a provocative sense of humour. Fresh from her ModaLisboa x RDD Textiles Award win, her work confronts the complexities of contemporary life with unflinching honesty.
The collection serves as a striking visual commentary on the globalisation of stupidity, portraying a world teetering between self-reflection and wilful ignorance. Described as a political path of dissociating the brain, it embraces delusion as a survival mechanism, translating this concept into garments that challenge and provoke. Layering, deconstruction, and unexpected fabric combinations—plaid, knits, and structured textiles—are styled to create effortlessly cool, organic looks. The collection also plays with gender fluidity, reimagining traditionally feminine pieces for menswear, such as a pink minidress or skirts layered over jeans, blurring gender boundaries.
IED
Every year, emerging designers take the stage to present new collections, whether through schools or special programmes supporting fresh talent. This year, IED – Istituto Europeo di Design – showcased a graduate collection featuring a selection of students from its campuses in Italy and Spain. Titled Nostalgia for the Future, the fashion show captured a paradoxical longing for experiences that have never existed, a wistful gaze towards an imagined future. This concept translated into bold, aspirational styles that balanced familiarity with innovation, blending sport and elegance, tradition and eccentricity. Through this lens, fashion became a means to explore nostalgia, offering silhouettes that spoke to both the past and a visionary tomorrow.
The collections reflected a commitment to sustainability, with garments crafted from eco-friendly materials, reinforcing the idea that creativity and social responsibility must go hand in hand. Designers such as Adele Domini, Alexia Sedda, Gaizka Albizu, Leonardo Fizialetti, Letizia Lucchini, and Rat Borrell each infused their unique perspectives into their work, shaping pieces that embodied both aesthetic ambition and ethical awareness. The showcase underscored IED’s role in nurturing forward-thinking designers who not only push creative boundaries but also acknowledge fashion’s influence on the world.
Luís Carvalho
A familiar name in the Portuguese fashion scene, Luís Carvalho brought his ‘Rush Hour’ collection to the runway, celebrating the modern, empowered woman who effortlessly balances the fast-paced demands of contemporary life—especially within the work environment. Embracing the ongoing “office siren” trend, the collection reimagines traditional office wear, introducing fluid yet structured unisex silhouettes that go beyond convention. It is a bold statement on power dressing, seamlessly merging elegance with functionality.
Suits take centre stage, featuring elongated, flowing lines contrasted with strong, structured shoulders, while cinched-waist dresses and pencil-cut midi skirts channel the essence of the ‘90s , enhancing the feminine silhouette. Thoughtfully placed details—structured bands, ribbing, and exaggerated sleeves—mirror the dynamic energy of rush hour. A refined palette of black, navy, brown, and grey is electrified by striking pops of acid green and royal blue, appearing in both monochromatic ensembles and daring floral and zebra prints. Staying true to sustainability, Carvalho incorporates dead-stock and recycled fibres, working with rich textures like crepe, jacquard, and faux leather.
ARNDES
ARNDES had to be on this list, presenting ‘Borrowed Clothes’, a collection that embodies its commitment to sustainability and experimental design. By repurposing deadstock fabrics and transforming existing garments, ARNDES fosters a “laboratory environment” where exploration thrives, minimising waste and maximising creativity.
For Fall/Winter 2025, the designer delves into the metamorphosis of classic materials, weaving together shirting, heavy wools, and felted knits to reflect the random encounters of people and stories. The collection is a tapestry of contrasts—shapes, textures, and meanings—connected by “invisible bridges” of intention. Pressed stripes and checks disrupt fabric linearity, capturing the tension inherent in the creative process, while the timelessness of skin reaffirms a sense of permanence. Hybrid silhouettes, oscillating between slim and oversized, underscore the collection’s versatility and its detachment from fleeting trends. The interplay of old and new creates a continuous dialogue, blurring the lines between inherited pieces and futuristic projections, leaving the narrative open-ended—a thoughtful question of bargain or concept.
Kolovrat
Lidija Kolovrat’s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection was an exploration of her signature blend of deconstruction, urban edge, and artistic depth—a testament to her unique vision honed through a background in cinema and fashion. This season, she unveiled a “fever dream of texture, tact, materials, culture, and insurgence,” a carefully balanced interplay of structure and fluidity, modesty and camp.
The show unfolded as a mystical journey, dominated by dark tonalities and fluid silhouettes, with an unwavering focus on the tactile qualities of the fabrics. This cohesive collection featured standout pieces, notably a striking red draped gown that flowed with an ethereal grace, followed by a luxurious fur gown that exuded a powerful, almost primal elegance. Kolovrat’s work transcends mere fashion; it is a co-creation, a conduit for intuition, spirituality, and innovation, empowering individuals to embrace their authentic selves with beauty, daring, and a touch of humour. Each piece, crafted with meticulous care, serves as a wearable expression of inner landscapes, inviting the wearer to engage with the unexpected and celebrate their unique identity.
PHOTO CREDIT: Emil Huseynzade
