A Legacy of Play and Craft.
After 11 years, Jonathan Anderson’s departure from Loewe leaves a significant mark. It wasn’t just about clothes; it was a vibe. He completely reshaped the brand, turning it into a space where art, craft, and a good dose of humour could coexist.
Fashion is cyclical, they say, but for some reason, we find ourselves in a nostalgic moment—one of the last truly iconic tenures is coming to an end, marking the start of a new era in fashion. Finding a designer as talented as Anderson—one willing to take big risks season after season, even facing criticism yet patiently waiting for his moment to shine—is rare. He took the time to create not just garments but lasting statements. And that’s another point: Anderson didn’t just draw from Loewe’s heritage—he built his own. He infused humour into the brand, reminding the fashion industry (which sometimes forget) that it doesn’t have to be so serious. That energy and synergy made the years pass effortlessly, creating a period we may never see again.
As we say goodbye to his incredible time at Loewe, PAUSE takes a look at some of his standout moments.
"I Told Ya": A Moment That Echoed Globally
Anderson’s costume design for “Challengers” wasn’t just dressing a movie; it was creating a cultural moment. Zendaya’s simple grey shirt emblazoned with “I told ya” became a viral sensation, showing how he could distill a powerful message into a seemingly everyday item. It proved his ability to tap into the zeitgeist, making fashion a part of a larger conversation. The phrase, usually a bit boastful, took on a life of its own, appearing everywhere from social media to street style.
Maggie Smith's Surprise Campaign: A Masterstroke of Unexpected Elegance
Casting Maggie Smith, an icon, in a Loewe campaign was a stroke of genius. It wasn’t just about putting a celebrity in clothes; it was about creating a dialogue between generations and unexpected realms of culture. The images, shot by Juergen Teller, were both classic and irreverent. Seeing her with a Puzzle bag was a delightful surprise, and it resonated deeply with fans, proving that high fashion can be both sophisticated and playful.
More Than a Runway: Expanding the Loewe Universe
Anderson’s vision extended far beyond the runway. He transformed Loewe into a multifaceted cultural force, curating every aspect of the brand. From the artistically driven Loewe publications to immersive exhibitions, the development of a fragrance line, and a distinct home decor and design aesthetic, he ensured that Loewe was not just a fashion brand, but a complete lifestyle experience.
"Decades of Confusion": Playing with the Brand's Identity with Wit and Style
The film “Decades of Confusion,” starring Dan Levy and Aubrey Plaza, tackled the perennial issue of Loewe’s pronunciation with a healthy dose of self-aware humour. The concept of a spelling bee, with Aubrey Plaza morphing through different decades of style, was both entertaining and visually arresting. It was a clever way to address a common point of confusion while showcasing Loewe’s rich archive and contemporary designs. The film’s playful tone underscored Anderson’s willingness to take risks and inject a sense of fun into the brand’s image.
A New Aesthetic: Blending Art, Playfulness, and Structural Innovation
Anderson didn’t just design clothes; he created immersive experiences. His runway shows felt like art installations, where garments were sculptures and ideas were tangible. He redefined Loewe’s aesthetic by blending structural innovation with playful elements. The pixelated shirts, the exaggerated proportions, and the surrealist motifs were all hallmarks of his unique vision. He proved that high fashion could be both intellectually stimulating and viscerally engaging, making it accessible to a wider audience.
The Loewe Craft Prize: A Commitment to Supporting Global Artisans
The Loewe Craft Prize was more than just an award; it was a testament to Anderson’s deep respect for craftsmanship. By providing a platform for artisans from around the world, he not only celebrated traditional techniques but also fostered innovation and cross-cultural exchange. He recognised that the human hand behind a creation is what gives it true value, and he made it a point to champion those who dedicate their lives to their craft. This initiative solidified Loewe’s legacy as a brand that values artistry and heritage.
The Puzzle Bag: An Instant Icon of Design and Functionality
The Puzzle bag’s debut was a pivotal moment for Loewe. Its innovative, geometric design, which allowed it to be folded flat, was both visually striking and functionally brilliant. It wasn’t just a bag; it was a piece of art that could be carried. Its immediate success and lasting popularity proved Anderson’s ability to create timeless pieces that resonate with a modern audience.
The Hottest Pop-Culture Moments
Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe became a fixture in defining major pop culture moments, most notably with custom designs for two of the world’s biggest icons. When Rihanna took the Super Bowl stage, revealing her pregnancy, her striking red Loewe jumpsuit with a sculpted breastplate instantly became a global talking point, perfectly capturing her powerful presence and the moment’s significance. Similarly, Anderson’s custom creations for Beyoncé’s Renaissance tour showcased his ability to translate high-fashion runway concepts into show-stopping, stage-ready masterpieces, underscoring his talent for creating looks that not only complemented but amplified the performances of these legendary artists.
Loewe's A-List Fave: Cultivating a Community
Over his tenure, Anderson cultivated a thriving community around Loewe, attracting a diverse range of A-list talent. Celebrities like Greta Lee, Taylor Russell, Zendaya, Jamie Dornan, Daniel Craig, Ayo Edebiri, Drew Starkey, Josh O’Connor, and Taeyong embraced the “Loewe spirit,” eagerly participating in campaigns and front-row appearances. This solidified Loewe’s position as a brand that resonated deeply with influential figures in the arts and entertainment.
SS23: The Anthurium Flower
The Spring/Summer 2023 collection, with its focus on the anthurium flower, was a visual feast, and while a lot of shows were iconic (literally all of them) the SS23 season defined the brand, with a unique approach to beauty, this collection became a symbol of Anderson’s ability to portray beauty on the runway (besides Taylor Russell opening the show). The flower, transformed into fantastical tops and dresses, brought a vibrant and almost electric energy to the runway, that later on was seen in every editorial, red carpet and celebs.
After this brief recap, it’s clear that Loewe, under Jonathan Anderson’s direction, achieved an extraordinary amount in just over a decade. He curated not just collections, but a community that transcended fashion. And now, as we look back, we can only say: thank goodness we were alive to witness it!
PHOTO CREDITS: LOEWE
