If you like your wardrobe clean and considered, your skincare should match. Forget 10 steps and trending active ingredients — a disciplined trio of Vitamin C in the morning, SPF every day, and retinol at night will do more for brightness, clarity and long-term skin quality than a bathroom shelf of maybes. This feature was developed with input from Dr Natalie Geary at Light Touch Clinic.
Vitamin C in the morning: brightness + defence
City life means UV, pollution and blue light — a cocktail that dulls tone and chips away at collagen. A well-formulated Vitamin C serum acts like armour: it helps neutralise free-radical damage and evens the look of dark marks from old breakouts, so skin looks fresher under caps, hoods and heavy collars.
- What to buy: Look for airtight, opaque packaging. L-ascorbic acid (the pure form) works fast but can tingle; if you’re sensitive or acne-prone, try gentler derivatives (sodium ascorbyl phosphate or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate) in the 5–10% range.
- How to use: After cleansing, apply a few drops to dry skin, neck and the backs of hands. Give it a minute to sink in before moisturiser and SPF.
“If you only add one serum, make it Vitamin C in the morning. It supports brightness now and protects the collagen you’ll thank yourself for later.” – Dr Natalie Geary, Light Touch Clinic
SPF every day: non-negotiable
UVA ages; UVB burns. Both hit 365 days a year — even when you’re layered up. Daily broad-spectrum SPF (30 or 50) is the single biggest investment you can make in future-proofing your skin.
- What to buy: “Broad-spectrum” on the label and a texture you’ll actually wear. Oilier skins do well with gel-cream or fluid SPFs; drier or post-shave skins benefit from hydrating creams.
- How much: Use the two-finger rule (index + middle finger length) for face and neck. Reapply if you’re outdoors for hours, sweating, or after a lunchtime run.
“SPF isn’t seasonal — it’s daily. The best one is the formula you don’t mind applying generous amounts of, every morning.” – Dr Natalie Geary, Light Touch Clinic
Retinol at night: smooths, clears, supports collagen
Retinoids (vitamin A family) help normalise how skin sheds, keep pores clearer and support collagen over time. Translation: fewer texture issues, softer fine lines, and less of those stubborn post-spot marks.
- Start low, go slow: Begin with retinol 0.2–0.3% two nights per week. After two weeks, go to three nights. If all’s calm after a month, step up to 0.5%.
- Buffering: If you’re new or sensitive, apply a light moisturiser first, then retinol, then moisturiser again.
- Cautions: Skip retinol the night before and after a fresh shave or when your barrier is irritated. Avoid during pregnancy. If you’re using strong acids, don’t stack them on the same night.
The exact routine
AM: Cleanse > Vitamin C > (Moisturiser, optional) > SPF 30/50
PM: Cleanse > Retinol (as per schedule) > Moisturiser
Week 1–2: Retinol two nights/week
Week 3–4: Three nights/week
Week 5+: Four to five nights if comfortable (hold steady if you feel tightness or flaking)
Shade-inclusive notes (PIH & beards)
If your skin is deeper in tone and you’re prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), this trio is your friend: Vitamin C in the morning helps with brightness; SPF prevents fresh marks from darkening; retinol (slowly) supports more even tone over time. For beard areas prone to ingrown hairs, work Vitamin C and SPF right up to the hairline and use a fragrance-free moisturiser post-shave. Hold retinol on nights you shave closely to reduce sting.
Gym, travel & shoot days
- Before a session: Cleanse > Vitamin C > SPF. Keep a travel SPF in your kit; reapply post-sweat.
- Flights & late nights: Prioritise SPF on arrival and a no-frills PM: cleanse > retinol > moisturiser.
- Tinted SPF: Useful on shoot days to soften uneven tone without makeup.
Shave-day tweaks
Shave with a cushioning cream or gel, rinse cool, pat dry, then use a bland, alcohol-free moisturiser. Apply Vitamin C once skin settles (or skip if you feel sting). Avoid retinol that night; resume tomorrow.
Doctor’s Notes
- Patch test new actives behind the ear or along the jaw for three nights before going all-in.
- Introduce one change at a time: Vitamin C first, SPF daily from day one, then retinol in week two.
- When to get help: Persistent acne, deep scarring, recurring pigmentation or razor bumps that don’t settle with this routine warrant a pro assessment. A short skin consultation at a doctor-led clinic can map out a plan without over-treating.
“Skincare should earn its keep. If a product doesn’t serve protection, repair or renewal, it’s probably clutter.” – Dr Natalie Geary, Light Touch Clinic
Quick buy guide
- Opaque, airtight packaging; avoid oxidised, orange-tinged Vitamin C.
- Vitamin C 5–15% for beginners; retinol ~0.3–0.5% to start.
- Broad-spectrum SPF 30/50 you like the feel of (texture > theory).
- Red flags: essential-oil heavy formulas if you’re irritation-prone; DIY “lemon juice” anything (just no).
Bottom line: keep it simple. Vitamin C protects and brightens by day. SPF locks in that hard work and shields from damage. Retinol handles the night shift, smoothing and supporting over time. Three products. Real results. Zero faff.
Author Bio
Dr Natalie Geary is a cosmetic doctor and Founder & Medical Director of Light Touch Clinic in Surrey, known for subtle, skin-first results and evidence-based care.
