New name, best game.
Despite the pandemonium brought about by the aptly-timed tube strike on the last day, LFWM was, as always, the greatest sojourn into a new season. The best thing about London is the celebration if the more cutting edge designers, the innovators and the tastemakers. Also, Vivienne [Westwood] was back.
From Craig Green to John Lawrence Sullivan to Berthold to Wales Bonner, LFWM is the premier destination for newness from designers all over the world. A/W17 gave us a myriad of new details and design as well as the more recycled looks from the best who know how to play the iconic style game.
Here’s our top 5 takeaways from LWFM:
Statements and Subversion
An ode to Christopher Shannon who didn’t shy away from the opportunity to make his feelings known. Reworked logos of cK and Hugo Boss stated the loss and upset following the Brexit referendum, bolstered by the shredded European flags worn by some models and designed by the inimitable Rottingdean Bazaar. Playing on the highly commercial trend of logo printed sweatshirts, Shannon showed how best to get the statement across.
Although it was interesting t see the resurgence of brown across the collections after a pretty long hiatus, the real colour of the season looks set to be orange. It doesn’t hurt that it sits so well with browns in any case. From deeper russets to salmons to tangerines, the shade reared its flaming head at J.W. Anderson, Topman Design, John Lawrence Sullivan, Martine Rose and more. There’s also a whole load of yellow and red about so keep your colours sunrise-esque for AW17.
The most prominent and recurring silhouette development for next winter is the rising neckline. The roll-neck has anthropomorphised and in bolder cases even risen over the face. While billowing bottoms, tied and cinched waists and sweeping overcoats make for some high contenders, the neck is the main event for AW17. Wales Bonner, Topman Design, SONGZIO and Sibling were just some of the champions of high-necked happenings.
Loungewear has apparently become sleepwear. It’s a relatively natural progression, we suppose. Liquid silks and bathrobe-inspired outerwear are the stars of this story with Katie Eary as the director. It’s a look that’s taken inspiration from womenswear summer trends, tidily demonstrating the current deconstruction of gender normative dressing and outlining the continuing reference point between menswear and womenswear.
The state of the world moving on from 2016 [and the rest of history to date] was evoked not only by Christopher Shannon direction but more subtly in the mood of what we could call apocalypto style. The abundance of long-line overcoats also has a Matrix-like protectiveness, a new armour for a new future. The sense of survivalism was rife with fitted hoods, mask-like neck lines and plenty of zips, straps and buckles, protection from climate change, global political upheaval and the end of the world.
From the outdoorsy escapism of Cotttweiler to the more austere musings of SONGZIO, survival was a major theme that refreshingly re-secures fashion’s place as socially, politically and culturally reflective. The return of provocation.