PAUSE Highlights: Streetwear’s Newfound Formality

Ask about the most popular brands in the streetwear space right now and you will most likely hear the names Aime Leon Dore and Stüssy. Looking at these labels, what do they both have in common? Well, for starters, they are rooted in the streetwear conversation and got their start by making their iterations of logo hoodies and graphic tees. But another common denominator is the preppier and more formal aesthetics they have started to implement, making us question how even to define this crossover style that takes from both menswear and streetwear.

What we first need to establish is what this all looks like. The style is a mix of Japanese minimalism and smart casual Americana aesthetics – think Polo Ralph Lauren mixed with Nepenthes’ Needles. It’s a playful and relaxed approach to menswear thanks to baggy streetwear cuts and baseball caps, yet smartened up with button-up shirts and chunky knit sweaters.

There are several reasons why this progression in style might have happened. Firstly, the ‘post-sneaker era’ we have entered –  a transition made easier thanks to the mule (cheers, Birkenstock!) acting as a segway to formal footwear options such as loafers and boots. Even though mules and backless footwear really caught traction as a response to COVID dressing and staying comfortable, people seem to be sick of dressing for comfort – as they have been for the past two years – and are now more eager to get dressed and put more effort in. With dressier shoes entering more people’s rotation, it forces wearers to dress accordingly and experiment with different silhouettes more known in the menswear space, most notably with bottoms, and style the clothes they already own in different ways.

Another reason could be that people are actually growing up. The peak of streetwear where Supreme, Palace and Bape were at the helm was at least half a decade ago. The teenagers of that era are now entering the workforce and are unlikely to have the time to keep setting their Thursday morning alarm for the next Supreme drop. Besides, despite Supreme’s gunning for a comeback with the appointment of Tremaine Emory as the new creative director, these brands are no longer at the height of their powers or popularity. This has naturally paved a new path for other brands such as the aforementioned Stüssy and Aime Leon Doré.

Stüssy is an interesting brand to focus on as they have stayed relevant and in the limelight since the boom of streetwear in the 2014/15 era and beyond. Their core aesthetic has remained solid and they have kept their distinct design language, despite revising the silhouettes they choose to use each season. By keeping up with the changes that streetwear has undergone, the cult surf brand has enjoyed an even bigger rise in significance, being one of the brands at the forefront of this new formal streetwear look and even the gorpcore aesthetic that has continued from last year. They have toned down their reliance on logo-heavy graphics and instead chosen to focus more on shapes and cuts that keep collections looking fresh – the direction that fashion, in general, is headed.

Living in a fast-paced world with TikTok micro trends and constant fast fashion releases, it’s both exciting and sustainable that timeless clothing is seeing a trend of its own. Dressing maturely, or at least with a unique perspective on it, is the new cool thing and tasteful thing to do. Core streetwear pieces such as sneakers and sportswear will never fully leave the scene – look at the popularity of retro Adidas sneakers such as the ‘Samba’ or New Balance’s full range – but they’re now being mixed and matched with shirts and ties or slacks and a cardigan. Elevation and intention are key as more people seem to care more about quality and composition, choosing to allocate their money to more than just sneakers. Streetwear has become more about the outfit itself and the harmony of the ensemble rather than the ‘wow factor’ of each individual piece.

It’s hard to call it a new subgenre of fashion when so many key streetwear elements are still present, just in different and subtle ways in comparison to before. Of course, it looks completely different from the streetwear we’ve all grown up around and it’s a very unexpected change but the same can be said for the series of events that have occurred around the world during the aesthetic’s development, most notably the pandemic. With all this in mind, yes, it is the natural evolution for streetwear considering the context of what has happened around us over the past two years. But, at least now, the new streetwear can get us a pass with more formal dress codes!