A positive human future. An approach focused on ideas of comfort and protection, while at the same time an emphasis on reducing to the most elemental, the most necessary. What is important to us that we would like to see developed further in the future? How can we improve? What is necessary, and, just as importantly, what is unnecessary? The point of departure for this collection was to look towards the future in a progressive, positive way, and create from a reductive approach. The result is a collection that displays a strong futuristic feel with a warm, human touch.
The silhouette is modern with a familiarity that at times is slightly twisted or has shrunken proportions. Layering creates asymmetrical forms giving depth and a thermal functioning to essential pieces. Generous outerwear shapes are refined and controlled; down coats are soft and have a duvet feel wrapping the body in forms inspired by military bivouac sleeping bags; padded coats and shirts add lightness to volume; technical welding and bonding has been utilised on natural fabrics and leathers. A warm, human touch has been given to the clothes and a rawness and slight imperfection is present through raw edge cutting and washed shrunken wool details. Hardware is kept to a minimum, looking to pre-technical sportswear as inspiration. Cotton cording, natural horn buttons with lacquered finishing, and brushed aluminium buttons are used throughout.
The collection, while forward-looking in inspiration, is created for the present. The lining construction on tailored pieces both supports the garment and gives the wearer an ease of movement created by horizontal cuts. Contrast stitching emphasises this construction. Movement is also enhanced through cut out forms at the elbows and armholes on outerwear and shirts.
The colour palette features soft, warm whites and natural cotton hues set against astral tones of green, grey, and beige. The colours seem to borrow elements from each other creating rich and balanced variations of different hues. Also present are black and the identifiably dark navy of Jil Sander.
Footwear and accessories take cues from the collection inspiration to complete the range. Bags are softened with
padding or as a result of specific leather selections; oversized functional forms are inflated to round corners; welded
construction and details are utilized; traditional leather luggage is refreshed in colour and hardware. A study in shape
was the focus of footwear, specifically the outsoles. Textured rubber overlays and skewed, angular forms create new
propositions of shoe, sneaker, and boot silhouettes. Vulcanised construction is a featured technique whose imperfections reinforce a natural, human touch.
The final effect of the collection is that it is a demonstration of how modern technique, silhouette, and materials can be given an elevated refinement. This is not about technology in a futuristic sense, rather an idea that the future is inviting and even positive. The constant march forward can be both a progression as well as an indulgence.
Check out the full Jil Sander Autumn/Winter 2018 collection which showcased at Paris Fashion Week below:
