PAUSE Highlights: Looking Back at John Galliano’s Decade of Deconstruction at Maison Margiela

John Galliano’s tenure at Maison Margiela marked a decade of extraordinary creativity and boundary-pushing designs. The British designer, known for his theatrical and often controversial runway shows, found a perfect match in the avant-garde spirit of the French fashion house. 

When Galliano joined Margiela in 2014, it was a surprising yet inspired choice. The designer, who had been ousted from Dior following a highly publicized scandal, was given a second chance to revive his career. Under his creative direction, Margiela experienced a renaissance, captivating audiences with its innovative and often perplexing collections.

Galliano’s signature style, characterised by its dramatic silhouettes, intricate details, and historical references, seamlessly blended with Margiela’s deconstructive aesthetic. The designer’s ability to transform everyday garments into works of art was evident in every collection, from the intricate tailoring to the unexpected juxtapositions of fabrics and textures. His decortiqué technique which involved stripping garments down to their essential structures, became a hallmark of his creative vision.

One of his early collections that spring to mind is SS17 Atisinal collection, which was a masterclass in deconstruction, beginning with a series of all-black looks that showcased trench coats, hats, and dresses with panels cut away to reveal their inner linings. While this is a hallmark of Margiela’s aesthetic, Galliano added his own romantic flair, layering tulle, chiffon, and lace throughout the collection. One of the most striking looks was a white coat adorned with a voluminous tulle silhouette of a woman’s face, which trailed dramatically behind the model as she walked.

Inspired by the seedy underworld of 1930s Paris, Galliano’s ss24 Artisinal show transported guests to a sinister bar beneath the Pont d’Alexandre III bridge. The crescendo arrived with actress Gwendoline Christie, a porcelain doll in a white and blue striped corset, her movements broken and her hair in ringlets. This striking image signaled Galliano’s triumphant return to the fashion world.

A regular on the red carpet, Galliano’s designs have been worn by a host of celebrities, including Rihanna, Beyoncé, and Zendaya, further solidifying his influence on contemporary fashion. One of the most memorable red carpet moements being The 2024 Met Gala, where grand themes and Galliano glamour dominated the event. Zendaya, one of the evening’s five co-chairs, made a stunning entrance on the Met steps in a custom creation by John Galliano for Maison Margiela. The look was inspired by Galliano’s iconic 1996 Dior collection. A regular on the red carpet, Galliano’s designs have been worn by a host of celebrities, including Rihanna, Beyoncé, and Zendaya, further solidifying his influence on contemporary fashion.

Galliano’s tenure at Maison Margiela have left an indelible mark on the fashion industry. His ability to challenge conventions and push the boundaries of creativity has inspired a generation of designers. As he embarks on a new chapter, his legacy at Margiela will continue to inspire and intrigue for years to come.