Thistle.
Last week, the Dover Street Market was the epicentre of the presentation of the Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY Fall/Winter 2026 season, where as soon as you entered the space, the punk moodboards receiving you at the entrance already told you where you were heading. Entering the space, a hand-painted installation that took days for the designer to create “a pagan-punk disco” served as a chaotic homecoming to Jeffrey’s Dalston club-kid roots. The atmosphere, fueled by the live sounds of Baby’s Berserk, framed a collection that felt simultaneously familiar and wild, driven by a “queered” vision of Scottish nationalism. Utilizing the thistle as a symbol of resilient defense, the presentation abandoned runway perfection for a lived-in energy where scuffed shoes, rolled sleeves, and torn hems suggested that the performance of the clothing was just as vital as the garments themselves
Titled “THISTLE,” the collection introduced a radical approach to construction where jackets were spliced and doubled, and sleeves were tied or reattached to create entirely new, hybrid silhouettes. This inventive tailoring was paired with slouchy denim and ruffled skirts, blending shredded tartans with an unpredictable layering of moss-green crochet, bouclé, and worn leather. Each look felt like a personal experiment in movement; Knits and cardigans were stacked and reconfigured, punctuated by dissected beanies, and the brand’s viral footwear, including new iterations of the claw boots and banana shoes. Ultimately, this season served as a protective manifesto for the label’s future, doubling down on the queer curiosity and “weirdo” soul that ensures LOVERBOY remains a relentless sanctuary for the unconventional.
PHOTO CREDIT: Courtesy of the designer.
