PAUSE Highlights: Female Designers Dominating The Menswear Scene

In recent years, female designers have made significant strides in the menswear industry, challenging traditional gender norms and redefining the concept of masculinity. With their unique perspectives and innovative approaches, these female designers are reshaping the menswear landscape and creating collections that are both stylish and riveting.

Priya Ahluwalia is a London-based fashion designer that has quickly gained recognition for her namesake brand Ahluwalia. The brand offers a unique blend of Nigerian and Indian heritage mixed with contemporary design while continuously challenging traditional notions of luxury and sustainability through its innovative use of materials and thought-provoking collections.

Ahluwalia’s designs are characterised by their bold colour palettes, intricate patterns, and unexpected juxtapositions of textures. often combining traditional textiles and techniques in each design, creating a sense of cultural authenticity. However, her design aesthetic is not limited to nostalgia; it also embraces modern silhouettes and experimental design elements.

One of the brands defining features is its commitment to sustainability. Ahluwalia uses recycled and upcycled materials whenever possible, prioritising ethical production practices. The brands collections generally feature repurposed garments and textiles, demonstrating Priya Ahluwalia’s dedication to reducing fashion’s environmental impact.

Credit: Ahluwalia

Martine Rose, a British fashion designer, quickly emerged as a prominent figure in the contemporary fashion scene over the years. Known for her unique blend of streetwear and high fashion, Rose has garnered a dedicated following for her innovative designs and boundary-pushing aesthetic.

One of her signature styles is the use of oversized tailoring, which has become synonymous with her brand Martine Rose. By reimagining classic menswear silhouettes in exaggerated proportions, Rose creates pieces that are both comfortable and visually striking. Her designs often incorporate unexpected details, such as mismatched patterns or contrasting fabrics, adding a playful and irreverent element to her aesthetic. Major collaborations with renowned brands, such as Nike and Converse, have further solidified her position as a leading figure in the fashion industry.

Rose’s ability to capture the zeitgeist and offer a fresh perspective on contemporary fashion is one of the reasons why her brand has the cult following it does today.

Credit: Ekua King

Born in London to Jamaican parents, Grace Wales Bonner’s designs draw inspiration from her personal experiences and her deep connection to both British and Caribbean cultures. Her collections often feature vibrant colours, intricate patterns, and thoughtful details that pay homage to her heritage. Renowned for its unique blend of Afro-Caribbean heritage and British tailoring, the brand offers a fresh perspective on menswear and womenswear.

Bonner’s collections are distinguished by their unique blend of contemporary silhouettes and vintage aesthetics and rich fabrics. Her designs also tend to feature references to historical figures and cultural movements, such as the Rastafari movement and the Black Panther Party. she is also well known for her collaborations with renowned brands such as Adidas, bringing her signature style to athletic footwear which saw their Samba sneaker gain major popularity in recent years.

Her ability to seamlessly blend different cultural influences has earned her a dedicated following, granting her numerous awards and accolades, including the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers.

Credit: Giovanni Giannoni / WWD

Chitose Abe founded Japanese fashion house Sacai in 1999. The brand is well known for its innovative designs and eclectic mix of styles, carving a unique niche for itself in the global fashion landscape.

Sacai’s signature hybrid designs seamlessly blends elements from different eras and cultures to create something new and unique. Abe’s ability to reimagine classic silhouettes and incorporate unexpected details has earned her a reputation as a master of deconstruction. From combining sportswear with high fashion to fusing vintage features with contemporary trends, Sacai’s collections are always fresh, surprising, and undeniably stylish.

One of Sacai’s notable attributes is its use of high-quality materials and impeccable craftsmanship. The brand’s garments are meticulously constructed, often featuring intricate detailing and unique finishing techniques. From tailored jackets with unexpected embellishments to flowing dresses with a surprising twist, each Sacai piece showcases the brand’s dedication to challenging sartorial codes.

Chitose Abe continues to evolve and innovate both in the menswear and womenswear scene making her a force to be reckoned with.

Credit: Stanley Cheng

Bianca Saunders, a rising star in London’s menswear scene, challenges traditional notions of gender and masculinity through her innovative designs. By reworking menswear staples with feminine details, Saunders subverts classic narratives of black masculinity, creating a powerful statement that extends far beyond the clothing itself.

Saunders’ approach to fashion is rooted in storytelling. Her collections explore themes such as family, memory, and the complexities of identity all in creative and visually stunning ways. Through her clothing, Saunders creates narratives that resonate with audiences on a personal level. Inspired by her Jamaican roots, elements of dancehall music and 1960s culture are infused into her designs.

Gaining recognition for her innovative use of materials and her commitment to sustainability, Saunders frequently incorporates recycled fabrics and ethical production methods into her designs, demonstrating her dedication to responsible fashion. Her collections have been praised for their originality, quality, and social impact.

As Bianca Saunders continues to rise in prominence, her influence on the fashion industry is undeniable. Her work challenges traditional norms, celebrates diversity, and is inspiring a new generation of female designers in the menswear scene.

Credit: Luca Tombolini