They say that, in life as in fashion, less is more. But the evidence at Paris Fashion Week suggests that ‘more is more’ could be the go-to trend this autumn and winter.
Key looks included baggy or even floor-length trousers, alongside pullover sweaters and formal jackets with playful touches added.
Designers very much leant into that aesthetic of laidback sophistication, with the basics – quality fabrics and neutral colour palettes – emboldened with finishing touches that enable their wearer to showcase their individuality.
Modern fashion has changed with the times, that’s undeniable, but there’s still a place for both luxury and creativity within men’s tailoring… often within the same look.
To Boldly Go
The baseline for classic men’s fashion is usually the colour palette, with simple tones like black, grey, white and chocolate brown typically acting as the foundation.
But to add a playful touch to formal looks and casual luxury, a pop of colour certainly never does any harm.
One of the easiest ways to add colour to a neutral outfit is with accessories like a tie or a cravat, a scarf, a belt or, if the occasion dictates, even a hat of some kind.
Add a splash of vibrant colour – reds and oranges are particularly in vogue in the autumn and winter months – to classical tailoring to create a sense of fun in your wardrobe choices in a season when neutrality and monochrome tend to be the order of the day.
Playful Luxury
For too long, sophisticated and formal menswear has relied on the basic and the banal – plain jackets, feature-less sweaters and tees, straight legged trousers and generic shoes.
Maybe now is the time to embrace a little more colour and unique design elements in our wardrobes; letting our personalities shine while adhering to the dress code of the day – be it work or pleasure.
Luxury doesn’t have to be plain colours and gold buttons. But that aesthetic is certainly popular with many, with the idea of ‘exaggerated wealth’ making its way into culture beyond the world of fashion.
The Wolf of Wall Street springs immediately to mind, as do TV shows like Succession and The White Lotus. The characters in them may be dubious at best, but they typically look the part – high couture as the world crumbles around them. It’s certainly a strong vibe, anyway.
Even games like Monopoly and Piggy Riches Megaways add a fun perspective on the aesthetic. They provide a tongue-in-cheek take on the pursuit of wealth, but the characters are timeless in their style – many people that have barely played Monopoly could still describe the various pieces that players can choose to be.
If the worlds of entertainment and culture are embracing playful luxury, maybe it’s time that fashion designers took inspiration from the mood as well.
Mixing Up the Textures
Wearing a suit jacket with jeans is hardly the height of innovation in smart-casual dressing.
But it’s a look that is becoming more and more accepted at formal events and business meetings; the wearer can present themselves in a professional manner while letting a little hint of personality through.
The next step of that journey could well be mixing up textures, while retaining that professional-with-an-edge vibe.
Softer fabrics, such as wool or cashmere, can comfortably be integrated into corporate fashion, while plain denims and leathers also fit the brief when paired with traditional suit tailoring.
Lighter materials like cotton and linen may usually be the reserve of summer strolls along the boardwalk, but they can be worn in the boardroom too when used to accentuate a more low-key tailored outfit.
Flannel outerwear and suede shoes are just two more examples of textures that can bring a playful touch to the luxurious sophistication of a made-to-measure suit… and the list goes on.
As always with fashion, the only limit is your own imagination.
The Italian Job
You’ve heard of ‘business at the front, party at the back’ to describe the mullet hairstyle, right?
Well, what about ‘suit pants on the bottom, velvet blazer on the top?’ Or maybe ‘dinner jacket and Oxford shirt on the top, slim fit denim on the bottom?’
The idea is to confound expectations. Can you look smart in an unbuttoned corduroy shirt? Can you still look professional in jeans or even khaki chinos?
Continental fashionistas may be familiar with the Italian term sprezzatura; it’s a word that describes simultaneous contradiction – can you be stylish yet uncaring in your clothing choices?
If you’re able to pull off a look that is high fashion, precise and defined while at the same time having that nonchalant ‘just thrown on’ appearance, you’ve achieved sprezzatura.
And that’s a good way to visualise this idea of playful luxury; anyone that wants to look their best, but in a low effort kind of way, can lean on the idea of sprezzatura – whether at the office, at the bar or even at the sports game.
