A collection that revisits core signatures with new clarity.
Fresh off his acclaimed debut as creative director of Blumarine in Milan, David Koma has returned to London with renewed momentum and a sharpened sense of purpose. His namesake label now stands fifteen years strong, and Koma describes this next phase as an embrace of joy.
For this Fall 25 collection, Koma looks to clean, sculptural shapes. Dresses made from velvet bonded fabric fit smoothly around the body, while long black gowns fall straight like columns and open in sharp, modern cutouts. Oversized bows add drama to taffeta looks, and curved details create new shapes across bright blue pieces.
Another theme in the collection is movement. Soft leather skirts are draped to show flashes of leg, asymmetric dresses wrap and twist around the body, and small reflective discs catch the light as they sway. A ruched mini dress bursts with a stretch of fabric at the hip, showing Koma’s ability to combine structure with softness.
The final theme focuses on eye-catching decoration. Sparkling crystal details climb across fitted dresses, sheer tulle pieces are covered with small feathered clusters, and close fitting designs are topped with thin layers of leather shaped like scales. These details reference earlier work from the designer and feel true to Koma’s style, yet they appear with a strengthened sense of confidence across the whole collection.
Fifteen years in, David Koma is not looking back. He frames this period as one defined by intention and refinement, creating space for experimentation rather than limiting it. If this collection is any indication, the future he envisions is expansive and expressive.
PHOTO CREDIT: DAVID KOMA.
