Hanwei Cheng Reconstructs Art Nouveau With Fresh Take on Architectural Menswear

Hanwei Cheng is redefining the boundaries of modern menswear. Infusing the structural dynamism of Art Nouveau architecture directly into garment-making, the London-based designer is bringing a contemporary, avant-garde take to the menswear silhouette. For this collection, the designer takes on abstract and architectural influences, narrowing in on the implications of form and structural lines. A direct contrast to previous interpretations of the Art Nouveau movement, which leaned on light, decorative prints and a soft aura to illustrate historical themes. Cheng instead roots his offering in physical construction, preferring to take an intellectual approach that champions three-dimensional architectural forms over simple pattern placement.

Capturing the true essence of Cheng’s design philosophy and demonstrating a flawless relationship between structure and movement, Cheng’s collection is made up of six modular pieces that capture the true essence of the designer’s philosophy. Toeing the line between refined tailoring and streetwear, this latest work mimics the contours and botanical elements of Art Nouveau vases, with some pieces in the collection honouring the historic polarity between the fluid design of women’s dresses and the structured tailoring of traditional menswear. Cheng’s collection features a standout pair of brown denim-like trousers, which are constructed with twisting panels and flat seams that act like corset stays and create a balloon silhouette which folds and flows with natural movement. Elsewhere, the limited offering also features a reimagined bomber jacket that’s constructed using rich red corduroy and is embellished with black velvet linear divisions inspired by architectural ironwork. It dons exaggerated balloon sleeves that taper into elongated cuffs, stained glass effects and classic whiplash motif detailing. The bomber jacket’s choice carries a poignant historical weight. As a silhouette that emerged during World War One, it marks the end of the Art Nouveau era and serves as a creative exploration of fashion had the design movement endured the war. The collection also sees a white shirt that incorporates black velvet tape to create an intricate carving pattern that references bold graphic illustrations, alongside a modern take on the biker jacket with exaggerated asymmetrical front panels echoing the irregular compositions of Art Nouveau, whilst also nodding to the future of menswear.

The collection is built on the principle of Gesamtkunstwerk, which translates to a ‘total work of art’. For this collection, Cheng moves away from historical references and instead draws inspiration from botanical motifs, the organic linework of stained glass and wrought iron interiors, to create a collection that balances edge with depth whilst being suited for the modern wardrobe. Informed by legendary designers such as Alexander McQueen, Hanwei Cheng uses sharp tailoring, unique architectural detailing, and pronounced waist definitions, successfully capturing the emotional nuance and essence of the era in reference. Cheng furthers the narrative by translating the wider visual culture of Art Nouveau interiors into a completely minimalist, modern visual language, and ultimately establishing a clean, contemporary aesthetic suited for a modern fall collection.

Check out the collection in the images below and let us know what you think in the comments.