PAUSE Highlights: Milan Fashion Week’s Best Moments

The Fall/Winter 2024 collections at Milan Fashion Week painted a vibrant picture for the upcoming season, blending dynamic colours with reinterpreted classic silhouettes and luxurious textures. Here are some of the key highlights that captured our attention.

This season, Matthieu Blazy stripped back the excess for his Bottega Veneta FW24′ collection, focusing on the ‘Elevated Everyday’. Classic Trench coats enhanced with graph paper patterns were joined in the spotlight by wool dresses that were pinned and tasselled, giving off a wearable but luxurious feel. Although the collection had a muted appeal, the designs and colours were far from lacking, as chunky sweaters sauntered down the runway in a variety of colours such as salmon and deep blood reds. Weighty jackets with big shoulders, jersey suiting, car coats and asymmetric leather skirts also appeared on the runway. Blazy’s collection showcased wearable but elevated clothes.

Friends of the house attended the show, with A$AP Rocky — arriving in a full leather Bottega Veneta fit — as the main attraction both pre-show and at the afters. The rapper has been a fan-favourite since appearing in the brand’s pre-fall campaign last December.

For his sophomore womenswear collection for Gucci, Sabato de Sarno turned his attention to outerwear, focusing on the versatility and importance of a statement coat. Embellished with crystal beading, his famous embossed GG peacoats from SS24′ made a glorious return, alongside trench coats cinched at the waist and soft knitted cardigans. Slinky slip dresses were also a part of the highly-anticipated collection, followed by two-piece looks of box-cut jackets and extremely short shorts.

Accessories also had a major part to play in de Sarno’s collection this season as he unveiled what is set to become the new ‘it’ bag of the season; the GG Milano. A top-handle leather handbag, available in ‘Ancora’ red, hot pink and powdery blue. Thigh-high leather boots and embellished sling-back heels also made up the accessories for the collection.

This season has seen many long-awaited debuts from creative directors taking the helm of various fashion houses all filled with rich heritage.

Adrian Appiolaza debuted for Moschino and stepped away from the camp era of the brand led by previous creative director Jeremy Scott. Appiolaza returned to the house’s strong codes, focusing more on wearable clothes whilst still retaining that element of fun the brand is so well known for. Smiley faces adorned cosy knitwear, whilst t-shirts featuring the peace sign — a motif synonymous with the brand from its founding — was seen on the runway and the word itself was printed onto branded caps. The overall collection was a slouchy and very real collection, reimagining Moschino’s archive for the modern woman.

Elsewhere at Tod’s, Matteo Taburini titled his collection, ‘Tod’s in Motion,’ unveiling his debut collection for the Milanese Fashion house in the city’s historic tram depot. Deeply rooted in the Italian way of life, the collection was perfect for both urban lifestyle and leisure, featuring pinstriped oversized shirts, long-lined leather jackets and a refreshing take on the classic trench coat.

Renowned for their minimalistic approach to fashion, Lucie and Luke Meier’s decision to deliver something different for Jil Sander this season was met with applause, as the first look to walk the runway was of a striking red hue. The whole collection was dotted with reds, browns and creams. Loose-fitting trousers accompanied matching tunic blouses with balloon sleeves and were accessorised with shimmering silver and brown scarves. References from the 1920s could be seen in the collection, as tasselled silver headpieces made up part of the accessories. The same silver also showed up on tailored trousers, with chainmail-like details running down the sides, creating a sleek, modern line over floor-length dresses.

The runway also saw a striking combination of long, tailored coats with understated lapels. Pops of colour came from luxurious blue fur slippers, further contrasted by a gleaming gold handbag tucked under the arm. The trend continued with boxy, relaxed tailoring, featuring jackets paired with loose-fitting shorts, all in a rich, light brown suiting fabric. Quilted dresses and short-sleeved shirts boasted exaggerated shoulders, whilst puffer jackets adopted an inflated silhouette, falling below the knee along with a high neck in black and maroon hues.

This season, MM6 Maison Margiela’s central theme was the concept of abstraction. This manifested in various ways, from the unusual use of everyday objects like a hotel pillowcase transformed into a top to the plush carpeted runway that mirrored the plushness of the clothing. This playful approach encouraged viewers to question the traditional purpose and form of clothing, inviting them to see familiar pieces in a new light.

Ever the abstract artist, oversized jackets blurred the line between coat and dress, whilst skirts appeared in unexpected lengths, some intentionally short, and others reaching the floor. Texture played a significant role in the collection, with a variety of fabrics adding depth and visual interest. Plush faux fur, smooth leather, and crisp cotton offered a diverse tactile experience, further emphasising the collection’s focus on sensory exploration.

For FW24′, Maximillian Davis took us back to the roaring 20s, taking the brand’s history and enriching it with his personal touch. Structured wool coats, drop waist sequin dresses and boilersuits reigned supreme in this collection. Adequately titled ‘Spirit,’ the collection was the expression of freedom, combining feminine silhouettes with highly masculine ones.

Feathers had a major part to play in Davis’ collection, appearing on mini-dresses and overcoats. Fringed feather shoes, and matching feather clutch bags were both standouts of the show, alongside coats with oversized lapels and wide-set belts. Intricately cut shimmering green and Ferragamo red leather dresses – seemingly made to look like fish scales – had show-goers on the edge of their seats.

Tokyo James often takes traditional silhouettes and adds unexpected details or twists, creating a unique and contemporary look. For his latest collection, the Nigerian designer drew inspiration from his roots. Simple and clean lines dominated the runway, with handmade lace fabrics weaving their way into others, such as denim and leather trousers, creating contrasting panels and in turn bringing the collection to life.

The collection, however, wasn’t limited to tailored pieces. Bouclé suits, blousons, and vests offered a range of textures and silhouettes. Richly decorated pieces also took centre stage: denim pants entirely beaded in the front offered a surprising twist, whilst sumptuous gowns with low waists and delicate embroidery exuded elegance and luxury.

Milan Fashion Week once again established itself as a platform for creativity and innovation, setting the stage for the upcoming Fall/Winter season with a blend of bold colours, timeless designs made modern and wearable, and a variety of luxurious textures.