PAUSE Highlights: The Best Collections from Paris & Milan Fashion Week Men’s SS27

The Defining Collections.

Milan and Paris Fashion Week Men’s Spring/Summer 2027 have come to a close, leaving behind another season of menswear. Across both fashion capitals, heritage houses and emerging designers presented collections that celebrated craftsmanship, challenged convention and offered fresh perspectives on modern dressing.

With dozens of runway shows and presentations across the two cities, narrowing down the standout collections was no easy task. From Rowen Rose’s breakout menswear moment and IM MEN’s thoughtful craftsmanship to Dries Van Noten’s effortless summer wardrobe and Willy Chavarria’s powerful storytelling, Spring/Summer 2027 proved that some of the strongest collections came from designers with a clear and confident point of view.

PAUSE Magazine rounds up the best collections from Milan and Paris Fashion Week Men’s Spring/Summer 2027. Take a look at our top picks below.

Rowen Rose

Rowen Rose delivered one of the breakout collections of SS27, presenting “Secret Garden“ within the opulent ballrooms of Villa Arconati during Milan Fashion Week. Inspired by the idea of a hidden garden, the presentation embraced an historic setting, allowing its architecture and atmosphere to enhance, rather than overshadow, the collection.

Despite it being the brand’s second menswear outing, the collection displayed a remarkable level of confidence. Sharp tailoring, sculptural silhouettes and a refined sense of glamour came together in a collection that felt both powerful and contemporary. While many established houses played it safe, Rowen Rose delivered a collection with a distinct point of view, firmly establishing the label as one of menswear’s most exciting emerging voices.

Dries Van Noten

If there was one collection that truly captured the spirit of Spring/Summer, it was Dries Van Noten. Julian Klausner’s third menswear outing as creative director embraced the sweltering Paris heatwave with a wardrobe that felt light, effortless and full of optimism. It was almost as if it was meant to be? Relaxed tailoring, fluid layering and vibrant colour palettes were combined to create a collection that embodied the season, proving that refinement doesn’t have to feel heavy.

In a season where many collections leaned unexpectedly autumnal, with darker palettes and textures, Dries Van Noten was a refreshing reminder of what Spring/Summer dressing should look and feel like.

Junya Watanabe

Junya Watanabe once again showcased the power of collaboration with “BLING BLING BLING“, a collection built around the designer’s signature reconstructive approach. Featuring a whopping 16 brand partnerships spanning heritage workwear, luxury tailoring and footwear, this season’s collection transformed familiar pieces into something entirely new.

Rather than relying on collaboration as a gimmick, Junya Watanabe used each partnership to explore craftsmanship, function and innovation.

Willy Chavarria

Staged inside the futuristic 1971 headquarters of the French Communist Party in Paris, Willy Chavarria’s SS27 collection, Comunión, was another powerful expression of the designer’s unmistakable vision.

Rather than chasing reinvention, Chavarria continues to refine a visual language rooted in Chicano culture, oversized tailoring and political storytelling. While lighter in tone than many of his previous collections, Comunión retained the strength and authenticity that has become synonymous with his brand, proving that consistency can be just as compelling as constant change.

Sean Suen

With his Spring/Summer 2027 offering titled “HIDDEN ONE”, Sean Suen once again demonstrated why he remains one of the most compelling voices in contemporary tailoring. Presented as a philosophical exploration of what exists just beyond perception, the collection favoured subtlety over spectacle. Blurring masculine and feminine codes with ease, Suen balanced softness and structure through elegant tailoring and fluid silhouettes, creating a collection that challenged traditional menswear while remaining refined and highly wearable.

IM MEN

With ‘In Praise of Bamboo Shadows’, IM MEN transformed a simple natural material into one of the season’s most compelling concepts. Inspired by Jun’ichirō Tanizaki’s seminal essay on Japanese aesthetics, the collection explored bamboo’s physical, cultural and spiritual significance through a series of thoughtfully constructed looks. Rather than treating maximalism as excess, Nobutaka Kobayashi, Sen Kawahara and Yuki Itakura demonstrated remarkable restraint, showing it is possible to make complexity feel considered.

SOSHIOTSUKI

Inspired by Salvador Dalí’s surrealist masterpiece “The Persistence of Memory”, SOSHIOTSUKI delivered perhaps one of the season’s most intriguing collections. Structured tailoring was reworked to appear as though it was melting and folding under its own weight, giving familiar silhouettes a surreal twist. Despite its artistic concept, the collection remained highly wearable with strong tailoring, thoughtful construction and collaborations with ASICS and blackmeans.

Celine

For his first standalone menswear show for Celine, Michael Rider delivered “Tough & Tender”, a collection that felt fresh while staying true to the house’s understated sense of luxury. Within, there was relaxed tailoring, cocoon shaped outerwear and a refined mix of monochrome, neutrals and jewel tones. If that wasn’t enough, the collection also debuted a collaboration with Reebok, featuring reworked archival Freestyle sneakers, adding a contemporary edge without distracting from the collection’s elegant simplicity.

Rather than reinventing Celine, Michael Rider has simply refined the brand’s signature aesthetic.

EGONLAB

For Spring/Summer 2027, EGONLAB continued to refine its signature mix of romance, rebellion and youthful energy. Titled Ataraxia, the collection looked to Ancient Greece while embracing the idea of transformation, celebrating clothing that evolves rather than remains fixed.

Fluid silhouettes and relaxed tailoring gave the collection a sense of movement and freedom, striking a balance between softness and strength. True to the brand’s identity, Florentin Glémarec and Kévin Nompeix delivered another expressive collection that felt both artistic and effortlessly wearable.

Dior

Dior’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection was a refined exercise in reinvention, reworking familiar house codes through a modern lens. Rather than introducing something entirely new, the collection subtly shifted expectations with relaxed tailoring, reimagined fabrics and archival references brought into the present. Elegant, thoughtful and beautifully executed, the collection proved that evolution can be just as impactful as reinvention, offering a polished finale to our favourite collections from Fashion Week.

PHOTO CREDIT: All Images Courtesy of Vogue Runway